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I have a RB526H2ww stove. The oven (bake) element stopped working. While removing it, I noticed only one of the push-on wire terminals was not connected to anything. I opened the back of the stove and found out the end of the red wire that supplies power to the bake element had burned out. The metal part where the end of the bake element should insert was damaged. That wire goes from the bake element to the broil element to the bake/broil knob and from there an other attached wire goes to the oven light on the control panel. My issue is that I cannot seem to find a replacement for this wire on any of the parts websites; it is not even mentioned on the replacement parts list. Can anyone help? Thank u so much!

Hoping someone on this forum might have some insight. Given the current state of the world, trying to DIY this repair rather than have someone in our tight house. Our Bosch Dryer model # WTMC332BUS/06 has been great for us. I think we have owned it 11-12 years and its still a work horse for our family of 5. That said, about 2 years ago my wife smelled a burning smell and understandably was freaked out. I did a complete cleaning of the lint filter and lint filter box snaking it. We ended up having a repairman out and I'm not sure what he did other than I think he pulled some lint out from under the drum. Four days ago we were getting the same burning smell. Given the current state of isolation I figured this was a good time to tear the whole dryer open and clean everything. In doing so, I did the following; - Removed lint filter and cleaned. - Fabricated a thin hose extension for my shop vac and vacuumed the entire lint box. - Removed the top cover and rear cover of the dryer exposing the back of the drum and underneath of the dryer. - Vaccuumed lots of lint from under the drum, around the belt pully assembly and generally the whole bottom side of the dryer. - I disconnected the heating element duct from the back side of the drum and used the same fabricated hose to vacuum up inside the rear of the drum. In doing so the drum did shift slightly back, but I was able to move it back forward and it appears to turn freely as it did. - On our model, the heating element duct soft of pivots or hinges down once disconnected allowing me to see the heating element. It also had several large balls of lint including one that was charred. Vaccummed and removed those as well. In doing all of this, I did not disconnect any electrical leads. This was simply a disassembly of the structure to clean and everything was put back together as it was. When I was done reassembling and had plugged back in, the dryer had power and when put to a setting and hitting the start button, it's not turning on. I am getting a first smaller "click" which I believe is the door safety switch and then a secondary "harder" or louder click. I now have the dryer dissassembled again. The secondary click appears to be coming from the back of the drum although I can't see anything electric there other than the plug. The clicking is not coming from the plug. Pictures below show the disassembled state. I would appreciate any insight this forum has as to things to look or check for. Much appreciated - stay safe everyone!

I am in Germany but I think the same repair principles will also work on appliances here. I have a built-in countertop oven with a ceramic glass countertop stove top. The bottom heating element for the oven failed. I bought a new part and replaced it. After I repaired it the controls of the oven and burners do not work properly. In order to get the burners to turn on I have to have the oven on, otherwise there is no power to the burners. It also appears that the oven heat is not regulating properly. When I turn in on to the very lowest setting (in order to operate the stove top burners) it seems that the oven becomes VERY hot, much more than the temperature setting. I re-checked all the connections and they are exactly the way they should be. I'm at a loose for what to do. Any ideas? ONE MORE THOUGHT. When I was repairing the oven I found a silver unprotected wire wrapping around the rear panel of the oven and returning back inside. The only way to get the rear cover off was to cut that wire. I thought is was simply some kind of securing wire to hold the back on. Could it be a wire to a temperature controller or thermostat? If so, could that wire be soldered back and function properly? At the moment I only wrapped it together. Thx!

I recently purchased a house, and the previous owners left the dishwasher behind (Whirlpool Gold Series: WDT720PADM). I was told that the heating element need to be replaced, but otherwise the dishwasher was in good shape. Upon inspection, the heating element had completely cracked, so we ordered a replacement from Amazon for around $30.00. When the replacement came, I followed the instructions on how to remove the old heating element and replace it, and everything seemed to go smoothly, only now, after running a wash, it's clear that the new heating element isn't heating. I came to this conclusion after putting some dishwasher washing product in the lower basket which has a wax seal that melts during the cycle when the temperature reaches a certain point. I ran a hi-temp cycle and when I checked on it this morning, the wax never melted and the cleaning solution was still in the bottle. I don't think I installed the heating element incorrectly, and I'm at a loss as to what else I can do to try and fix this without having to call an expensive repairman. Any thoughts?

My 13-year old Asko dishwasher (D1776) is giving me the "F1" code, which means trouble heating. It's otherwise in great shape, so I thought I might grab a replacement heating element (part #8057077) as the easiest part to replace, but I have looked all over the internet and the only one I can find is used, in terrible shape, overpriced, and in Australia (I'm in the US). Is this something dishwasher manufacturers do - not produce enough replacement parts so that when parts break you have to buy a new appliance? Thanks, Chris

File Name: Whirlpool and Inglis Plastic Tall-Tub Dishwasher Heater Rework R17365 File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 18 Dec 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Whirlpool and Inglis Plastic Tall-Tub Dishwasher Heater Rework R17365 Multiple models with serial number ranges. PUB K8178502A Click here to download this file

I have a 30 Gallon Richmond Water Heater, Model Number 8MV30-2, Upper and lower wattage listed at 4500/3380 each. It was typically enough water to provide two showers before it ran out. About 3 months ago (yes I have been lazy in dealing with the issue) it started only giving enough water for about one shower. I eyeballed the top and bottom element from the outside and neither has the appearance of being burned out. To "rectify" the situation, I cranked up the heat, it works, kinda. I live in an apartment building where the maintenance guy has equal or less skill with this than I do, and the landlady is quite cheap, so replacing it would be like pulling teeth with no anathestic. Can anyone give me pointers on how to test each of the elements? I plan to turn off the power next week and drain it, I figure it would be a good time to pull each of the elements to inspect and test them. Thanks in advance for any help! D

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