Search the Community

After replacing a water heater some years ago due to not keeping an eye on the anode rod, I'm being diligent about pulling the rod out and seeing if there's anything left of it. The heater in this house is a Bradford White (URG250T6N). The photos show the rod as of yesterday. Thing is, photos of it 2 years ago look exactly the same. I suppose all the water treatment paraphernalia we have may mean its deterioration is much slower -- ? So, my first question is, does the rod look as you'd typically expect? I was surprised it was so fuzzy and flaky. Also, is it just the difference in water chemistry that has kept it in the same state? Thanks, Ron

I'm not at home at the moment to give you all the model info on my water heater - but thought I'd get the discussion rolling on a possible general cause given the symptoms. First, some background: it's a 12 y.o. 40-gallon gas water heater. I've done my best to keep it serviced over the years by regularly opening the drain and getting as much sediment out as possible. We do have hard water and no softener. Last summer I found the thermal expansion tank above the water heater had failed (bladder ruptured), so I replaced that. At the same time, I completely drained the tank at that time and replaced the anode rod, which had almost completely worn away. But it gave me a chance to inspect the tank from the top with a flashlight and flush it out good. I was actually surprised by how good it looked inside - but of course, I couldn't get a close look at the bottom. I also replaced the drain valve (had a cheap plastic/nylon one) and the pressure relief valve at the top with a matching rated one. At 10+ years, I figured better safe than sorry. What I also found at the time is that the water pressure in my house was WAY high. With some direction from some of these forums, I tested the pressure at an outside hose spigot which was reading 85psi. Things started clicking then - probably the reason for the expansion tank failure. Probably the reason I found one of the bathroom hot water shutoff valves "popped" off earlier this year (which I thought my wife had somehow accidentally shut off before.) I didn't know if the city's pressure to the house changed? Or if the inlet pressure regulator valve had failed? But I was able to adjust the regulator down and it had been holding steady as of sometime in November. I've not checked it recently because I had no reason to. But maybe I do again.... The new symptom is little to no hot water - or just luke-warm water at best - when you turn on the upstairs shower in the morning to it's hottest setting. it's happened twice in the past week - but not two days in a row. It's been about 5 days apart. Got up in the morning to take a shower. Shower was the first thing I turned on - and at it's hottest setting, it's only luke-warm. Even after letting it run a full minute! I took my luke-warm shower (maybe 5 minutes), got dressed, and went down in the basement to check the water heater, fearing the worst. No leaks. Nothing from the pressure relief valve. Drain valve is closed and no leaks. Tank was full. Expansion tank still functioning fine. The gas was on and I heard the water being heated (crackling noise it makes). So I manually tested/opened the pressure relief valve and heard air escaping...quite a bit... before water finally began to flow. I've tested that on several occasions before and never heard that much air have to escape. So that concerned me. I went up to the kitchen and turned on the hot water, and we had hot water.??? I thought maybe it was just the trapped air - and a one-time issue. But it happened again this morning according to my wife. She left earlier than I did - but said she had to take a luke-warm shower - as did one of our kids after her. When i got in the shower an hour later, it was perfectly fine. In fact, water so hot, I had to cool it down. So, CLEARLY, something isn't right here. Replacing the water heater was actually already a starred item in our major expenditures this year. I just figured anything we got beyond 10 years on it would be a blessing - but we shouldn't wait for catastrophic failure. I can get back on here tonight with my water heater's specifics if need be - but I hope this would be enough to at least start honing in on the problem(s). Thanks in advance for your time!

Had a Ariston GL4 electric hot water heater supplementing the hot water in my condo for over ten years - just had to clean out every 6 months and replace anode rod. Finally had to replace it, believe was because a burnt appearance on left connection to electric element. Replaced it with the new replacement, the Bosch equivalent. Turned up the temp for dishwasher, then back down when done. Started smelling a burning smell when water heater turned on. Finally pulled the faceplace after smell stronger after several uses, found left electrical connection to water heater element totally burnt and black, steel on heating element base that shows without pulling element out - appears brown instead of steel looking, and maybe some greenishness. Bosch said to try to test element, and they will send out new thermostat and element - why would this happen? After cleaning tank out, I have put a bit of vinegar into the tank and flushed it out -I assume that wouldn't do it. The water heater is plugged into a GFI outlet, which I pushed the test button to ensure it is working. I have bought a heavy duty outlet strip (not a surge protector) - from TrippLIte, with its own 15 amp breaker - and the Tripp Lite OSI block or whatever surge protector, which they claim is the only product they make heavy duty enough for the water heater, which will plug into the heavy duty strip - any thoughts? The strip is necessary to be able to properly use the surge protector -

Controlled Energy AS240FX Tankless Gas Water Heater Installation Manual and Schematic View File PUB date 01.2002 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 08/04/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

GE Hybrid Water Heater MiniManual (China model) View File This is the mini manual for the Made in China GE Hybrid Water Heater Models: GEH50DNSRSA1 GEH50DXSRGA1 No PUB number Submitter Jim Warnock Submitted 03/07/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper

GE GeoSpring II Hybrid Water Heater Training Presentation View File This is the tech training manual for GE GeoSpring II (Made in USA) water heater circa 2012 Submitter Jim Warnock Submitted 03/07/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper

Does anyone have a copy of the owner's manual for Rheem water heater? I haven't changed it for 5 years; not sure if it's worth it at this point. I just read that you only need to change it once every 5 years, so I want to give it a try.

File Name: Whirlpool Water Heater N30T61-303 Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 07 Oct 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Whirlpool Water Heater N30T61-303 Installation Instructions and Use & Care Guide 319118-002.pdf Click here to download this file

I found a post in this forum that appears to answer my question, but I wanted to start a new topic to get a better grasp of the big picture. My p&t valve line goes up and out to the patio. There appears to be water there (maybe 8 to 10 oz) every morning (after showers?). Here's the post that leads me to believe its either build up or too much pressure. http://appliantology.org/topic/27317-water-heater/?hl=p So if it is too much pressure, here's my question; how much pressure should be coming in from the street? Its City water. Is this a measurable thing, for a non-plumber like myself? A way to test it? We have a toilet that chronically runs for a second or two occasionally (I've replaced the entire tank kit by now) that also made me think I had too much pressure. I'm familiar with the valve to limit the incoming pressure, but only in passing. I say hello. Its silent... Any advice would be grratly appreciated. Even if its "Dude, call a plumber..." I can post pics and models #'s, but for now its more of a general, philosophical discussion. Thanks, D

I have a 30 Gallon Richmond Water Heater, Model Number 8MV30-2, Upper and lower wattage listed at 4500/3380 each. It was typically enough water to provide two showers before it ran out. About 3 months ago (yes I have been lazy in dealing with the issue) it started only giving enough water for about one shower. I eyeballed the top and bottom element from the outside and neither has the appearance of being burned out. To "rectify" the situation, I cranked up the heat, it works, kinda. I live in an apartment building where the maintenance guy has equal or less skill with this than I do, and the landlady is quite cheap, so replacing it would be like pulling teeth with no anathestic. Can anyone give me pointers on how to test each of the elements? I plan to turn off the power next week and drain it, I figure it would be a good time to pull each of the elements to inspect and test them. Thanks in advance for any help! D

File Name: AO Smith commercial/residential water heater File Submitter: BryanS File Submitted: 23 Feb 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper BTX100, GDHE 50 series 120 and 121water heater Click here to download this file

File Name: Service Handbook For Standard Residential FVIR Gas Water Heaters File Submitter: BryanS File Submitted: 23 Feb 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper MODELS: GCV, GCVH, GCVL, GVR, XCV, XCVL, XGV, XVR - SERIES 200/201 GVRL, XVRL (40-Gallon Short) SERIES 202/203 Click here to download this file

File Name: AO Smith Water Heater Training File Submitter: BryanS File Submitted: 23 Feb 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper AO Smith water heater training manual Click here to download this file

File Name: Whirlpool EE3J40RD045V Electric Water Heater Operating Manual File Submitter: djgiesbrecht File Submitted: 22 Feb 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Installation/User Manual for Whirlpool Electric Water Heater, circa 2005 Click here to download this file