GE Monogram ZISW420DRA freezer too cold fridge warm

[WalterP12]

Hello all,

I have been wrestling a GE Monogram ZISW420DRA side by side fridge for about 8 months now with the same problem... everything works fine (after a manual defrost & part replacement) until the freezer gets too cold (-10) and the fridge gets too warm (47)... this has happened multiple times at multiple intervals. i've replaced: evaporator fan motor, defrost heater, defrost heater thermistor, all thermistors in fridge and freezer and the main control board.  This happened to me again this past weekend and so i decided "let's replace some more parts", with 1 of which being the ice dispenser door/flap (it was icing up if i used it in the past). when i took the dispenser display/control assembly off, i noticed on the back of the circuit board that the 1 screw that held it in place actually screwed/dug into the board itself. it looks like it took out 2 or 3 pins with the screw, itself, showing signs of corrosion.  so my question to you folks is - could something like this, on this particular circuit board be the root cause of my temperature problems that i never would've guessed??? maybe it's shorting something?? causing bad ground?? 

i remember seeing on this forum once that someone had a similar problem and replaced the same parts as i did ALONG with his "fresh food defrost assembly" board under the assumption that THAT circuit board was causing problems for him. after all was replaced his fridge was working again but it wasn't determined what part really fixed it. (http://appliantology.org/topic/37379-monogram-ziss420drcs-side-by-side-built-in-frig-ff-at-42-deg/?page=2 )

thank you very much for any information or help you folks can provide! i really appreciate it!

-Walt

[Chat_in_FL]

Damper:

The fresh food compartment receives chilled air via an electronic damper that is positioned at the top rear of the fresh food compartment. The damper is controlled by the main control board and when open, allows the evaporator fan to push chilled air from the evaporator into the fresh food compartment.

Edited September 18, 2016 by Chat_in_RI

[16345Ed]

Yep damper good suspect. 

 

Tell us about the procedure you used to replace the thermistors. 

I ask because if those connections get comprised by moisture they could send bad data to the control board. 

Edited September 18, 2016 by 16345Ed

[WalterP12]

19 minutes ago, Chat_in_RI said:

Damper:

The fresh food compartment receives chilled air via an electronic damper that is positioned at the top rear of the fresh food compartment. The damper is controlled by the main control board and when open, allows the evaporator fan to push chilled air from the evaporator into the fresh food compartment.

 

thanks chat_in_RI for the response. i have actually JUST replaced the damper today also (in an effort to change all major components). i'm a little hesitant about that being the problem, though, because when i flipped the breaker to turn of the fridge and got to the damper it was in the OPEN position. that tells me the fridge had the damper open at the moment i killed the power, no? so it was "trying" to send air to that side. 

 

11 minutes ago, 16345Ed said:

Yep damper good suspect. 

 

Tell us about the procedure you used to replace the thermistors. 

I ask because if those connections get comprised by moisture they could send bad data to the control board. 

thank you 16345Ed for your response.

I changed the thermistors by stripping and winding in wire nuts. then i placed silicone in the small gap in the wire nuts to "seal" them. 

 

So i'm guessing you guys think the damage caused by the screw into the dispenser display assembly circuit board isn't a major culprit?? 

 

thank you again for your responses! 

 

[16345Ed]

Yes that board needs replaced by the sounds of it. 

[WalterP12]

[WalterP12]

whoops, tried to paste the picture of the circuit card. thank you 16345ed! (will try to get it linked somehow)

[Chat_in_FL]

1 hour ago, WalterP12 said:

 

damper it was in the OPEN position.

 

Ok, so was air passing through it? Is there a difference in air flow through the damper when the freezer door is opened or closed?

[AlboGator]

Give it some time to see how it reacts, going with damper as well on this. 

[WalterP12]

Thank you everyone! Replaced the damper and waiting on the display/dispenser assembly to be shipped (back order).  Will let you know how it goes. 

[WalterP12]

Hi all,

Replaced the damper and the display/dispenser assembly and had my fridge running (for 4 weeks) like never before - it would actually stop running WAY more times during the day than it ever did and temperatures were holding great.  Now, I have a new, but similar, problem - i'm getting -7 to -9 readings in the freezer, but NOW my fridge stays perfect at 37. Could this be the thermistors in the freezer??? 

Thanks again for your help

[WalterP12]

On 10/29/2016 at 9:25 AM, WalterP12 said:

Hi all,

Replaced the damper and the display/dispenser assembly and had my fridge running (for 4 weeks) like never before - it would actually stop running WAY more times during the day than it ever did and temperatures were holding great.  Now, I have a new, but similar, problem - i'm getting -7 to -9 readings in the freezer, but NOW my fridge stays perfect at 37. Could this be the thermistors in the freezer??? 

Thanks again for your help

Scratch that.... ended up being the same problem... -11 in freezer, 45 in fridge.... so this time i tried a couple new mini experiments:

1. i threw some thermometers in the fridge and freezer. They were reading almost exactly same temperatures as the fridge was reporting back (-11 & 45)... so that leads me to believe nothing is wrong with the thermistors as you mentioned i changed above - looks like they are reading properly.
2. Then I jacked up the freezer temperature to 6 and lowered the fridge temperature to 34... doing so shifts my ACTUAL temperatures to -4 and 43... slightly "better" and closer to our nominal.. but clearly a delta of about 9 degrees on each side (from what is set, to the actual).... 

so am i back to a defrost problem??? the only components that i have NOT changed yet are the "thermostat cutoff" and the Pan that's in there... do i need to try that icing kit? 

or maybe it's NOT a defrost problem??... maybe i need another main control board or can it be the HMI board???.... running out of parts here, haha

Thanks again for all of your help!! 

[ogbza]

I'd be very curious if you ever resolved this.  I've been having the same problem for years.  Have to manually defrost every few months.  Pls let me know, thanks! 

[deal2seek]

@walterP12

I am curious if you solved the problem too. 

I am having the exact same problem where freezer stays at -10F and fresh food 46F. I have tried to replace the two thermistors in the FF which did not fix the problem (the new and existing thermistors have almost identical impedance readings); I tried replacing the damper assembly to no avail (again the new and existing damper have the same impedance readings). 

The evap fan works OK: I feel strong cold air in the freezer -- there is an air duct in at the back of the ice maker, so I can feel it. On the other hand, I can feel cold air at the damper door when it opens, but air flow is not strong enough. 

I am running out of ideas where to look. Can someone help?

 

 

[Luv GE]

RE:  GE Monogram refrigerator side by side with icing problem, too cold in freezer and too warm in fridge

Anyone come up with a solution to this issue as stated in #37379?  I've been replacing parts but same problem.  I defrost manually then 7 to 10 days later freezer gets 15 degrees colder than I set and the fresh food side gets warmer than I set, usually about 15 to 20 degrees.  I am wondering if the problem relates to insufficient defrosting as I get no water under the compressor pan other than when I defrost.  Seems like replacing parts isn't the issue?  After defrosting I slowly get a buildup of ice and frost in the evap lower area.  The upper evap doesn't seem to get any permanent frost that I can see in the front anyway.  Seems like the icing of the evap slows airflow to the fresh food allowing it to warm up and the freezer to get much colder.  

Thanks!  

[Budget Appliance Repair]

@Luv GE sounds to me like you may have a sealed system problem, (Low on Freon/R134a)

If only the lower part of the evaporator coil is frosting over it most likely never gets cold enough to close the defrost t-stat, (that is at the top of the evaporator coil), so when it goes into defrost the heaters never turn on. 

The compressor just shuts off during the 20-30 minute defrost period then restarts without melting any of the ice built up on lower section of the coil then when the lower section is all plugged with ice not more airflow can get to the refrig section and the compressor runs constantly trying to cool thus getting the freezer colder.

[Mr. mizer]

I too have been fighting this problem for years in my GE Monogram Side by Side. Now I clearly know the reason the freezer gets so cold yet the fridge hovers at 47 degrees. The return vent between the fridge section and the freezer get completely clogged up with ice. I have noted over the years that when it is humid outside this problem usually tends to occur. My solution always was to unplug for a few days, not really knowing that I was melting the chunk of ice in the return vent, but I just knew the unit would work again after that - and work very well. I ran many tests on components never to find one conclusively bad. Well this last time the problem happened, I immediately disassembled right up to the evap coil in the freezer and there was super ice-clogged vent. It's really just a passage way between the fridge and the freezer. I noted there is a styrofoam piece that seems to make the vent effectively 1/3 of it's size, which I think aggravates this problem. So now I've opened up the vent to it's fullest by cutting out that styrofoam. NOW as to the real why. My latest theory is combination of the small vent (blocked by styrofoam piece - design issue if you ask me) and possible leaking door seals allowing humid air in. So I ordered new door seals and am going to tape off the ice dispenser opening in the door from the freezer side to better block air getting in. And try again.

[Jimmyw]

13 hours ago, Mr. mizer said:

I too have been fighting this problem for years in my GE Monogram Side by Side. Now I clearly know the reason the freezer gets so cold yet the fridge hovers at 47 degrees. The return vent between the fridge section and the freezer get completely clogged up with ice. I have noted over the years that when it is humid outside this problem usually tends to occur. My solution always was to unplug for a few days, not really knowing that I was melting the chunk of ice in the return vent, but I just knew the unit would work again after that - and work very well. I ran many tests on components never to find one conclusively bad. Well this last time the problem happened, I immediately disassembled right up to the evap coil in the freezer and there was super ice-clogged vent. It's really just a passage way between the fridge and the freezer. I noted there is a styrofoam piece that seems to make the vent effectively 1/3 of it's size, which I think aggravates this problem. So now I've opened up the vent to it's fullest by cutting out that styrofoam. NOW as to the real why. My latest theory is combination of the small vent (blocked by styrofoam piece - design issue if you ask me) and possible leaking door seals allowing humid air in. So I ordered new door seals and am going to tape off the ice dispenser opening in the door from the freezer side to better block air getting in. And try again.

This has been haunting me for years.  I do the same and have replaced the control board every year.  When doing so, I end up turning the fridge off for a day or two. The pan under the compressor gets really full and I always thought it was water melting from the evaporator. Because of this, I have forced the defrost cycle and that seems to help sometimes but never a long term solution. 

Deep down, I knew it wasn't the control panel, damper, evaporator fan, or thermister. However, no one could really provide the answer until now. I have had this issue, when accidentally leaving the fridge door ajar.  If your theory is correct, that the humidity introduced into the fridge can explain ice building up and  blocking the vent.  At least you know where to go when this happens which is all I want at this point.  

Do you mind describing exactly where this clogged vent is and how to access it? Maybe some pics you have some?

[Mr. mizer]

Sorry taking so long to answer, I got no notification of your post. First of all my model is the ZISS480DMC. It is a 2005 model, so pretty old but still works well - when this dang vent is not clogged up. I think the vent design is the same for the 42 inch and 36 inch wide models since they are all covered by one manual.

Now for the vent location. This is a side-by-side model. The compressor sits up top. Freezer on the left, fridge on the right.  In the top of the freezer section is the evaporator. You get to it by removing a bunch of shrouding in the top of the freezer compartment. You essentially have to remove everything. My ice maker was removed years ago to make more room, so I don't have to mess with that. It's when you get to the ceiling panel that it gets a bit tough. I remember the first time I took that out it was a bit of a fight getting some adhesive to release. Then you'll see a pan under the evap coil. This pan is the drain pan used during the defrost cycle. It has a hose on the right side with a clamp. The drain hose leads through an opening in the freezer section and continues on to the compressor pan which serves as the dumping point (dumb design cause it rusts the compressor - but that's another story). It is this opening in the freezer that the hose passes through that also serves as the return vent from the refrigerator section. Anyway I removed the hose clamp and the pan on the bottom of the evap to really get a good look at this vent. If you continue disassembly, moving to the fridge section, remove the top lighting panel. This will expose the other end of this vent opening in the fridge section. So it this vent that returns air pushed by the evap fan into the fridge. It is a passage way between the two sections.

The last time (recently) this problem cropped up I unplugged and quickly disassembled everything. This vent viewing from the freezer side was completely plugged with ice.

You'll see the vent is bigger than allowed because of a strip of styrofoam. I cut that out. Also changed the spring clamp on the hose to a screw clamp to make reassembly easier (so cramped). Also I left the top lighting panel in the refridge section out for now.

My experiment continues. The unit is working perfectly well so far, but it hasn't been long.

[Mr. mizer]

Forgot to say I also ordered and installed new door seals. Not cheap but obviously made a difference in the way the doors close and seal. I also taped off the ice dispenser opening in the freezer door in an effort to remove any possible leak spots.

I almost gave up on this refrigerator but feel hopeful now, but really won't know for many months of operation. Hopefully the unit doesn't die from some other reason now!

[Mr. mizer]

Forgot to say I also ordered and installed new door seals. Not cheap but obviously made a difference in the way the doors close and seal. I also taped off the ice dispenser opening in the freezer door in an effort to remove any possible leak spots.

I almost gave up on this refrigerator but feel hopeful now, but really won't know for many months of operation. Hopefully the unit doesn't die from some other reason now!

Edited to add:

There's two more things I believe about this ice-plug. First of all the defrost cycle cannot melt this plug away. It may melt it some, but due to the location won't get it all. Secondly is when you and I unplug the unit and let the plug melt, the water from it drips down into both the refrigerator and freezer sections. It does not melt into the drain pan and run to the compressor pan.

All in all if you ask me, this is a design flaw such that in high humidity conditions (coupled with perhaps poor door seals) these refrigerators are exceptionally prone to develop this plug.  

[Jimmyw]

I didn't realize you replied and didn't get a notification but back here again because the problem reared its ugly head . I just want to replace this fridge with a Sub-Zero but really can't afford it. So I'm the type of person that just can't stand why I can't figure it out. At least I remember you talking about the plug between the wall and the vent. I went straight to it this time and just took a hair dryer and melted it, which obviously fixed it at least I didn't have to empty the whole damn thing.So the quest continues. One interesting thing is that when I use the hair blow dryer The temperature readings on the fridge didn't go up until much later. Is there supposed to be a delay? At this point I'm just hoping it's the thermistor  and I can replace those. 

 

[Mr. mizer]

Yeah I don't a notification either when you post, but just happened to look. I hate to jinks myself, but I must say I've been very happy so far with our fridge since I last posted in July - like 2 months ago. And working through what I consider the worst time of the year due to the high humidity. So not quite enough time to fully claim success, but looking good so far.

I really think you should go into the freezer roof section and open up that passage way between the freezer and refrigerator sections so the air flow isn't so constricted. I opened it up but cutting out some of the styrofoam that partially blocks the vent. Re-read posts from 2 months ago and hopefully what I wrote gives you enough of a guide.

I too was like you. I was at my last straw for this fridge. Then I thought okay attack with some brute force. What's the worst that could happen. Since the return passage way kept getting blocked - open it up.

Again just so it is clear. We're talking about the passage way that returns warm air from the fridge side to the freezer side. When that warm moist air hits the cold in the freezer side it condenses right there in the passage way. And note there is no damper in this return passage way. The cold air enters the fridge section from the freezer section using a different passage way (in the rear of the compartments)  - which does have a damper.

Anyway - that's my story. I'd be interested what you do.

Oh, and the thermistors, there is a self test you can run described in the service manual.

https://visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9091.pdf

I don't think your problem is the thermistors. If they normally report and control the fridge when the vent isn't blocked - they're likely just fine.

Let me know

[Jimmyw]

On 10/9/2024 at 10:59 AM, Mr. mizer said:

Yeah I don't a notification either when you post, but just happened to look. I hate to jinks myself, but I must say I've been very happy so far with our fridge since I last posted in July - like 2 months ago. And working through what I consider the worst time of the year due to the high humidity. So not quite enough time to fully claim success, but looking good so far.

I really think you should go into the freezer roof section and open up that passage way between the freezer and refrigerator sections so the air flow isn't so constricted. I opened it up but cutting out some of the styrofoam that partially blocks the vent. Re-read posts from 2 months ago and hopefully what I wrote gives you enough of a guide.

I too was like you. I was at my last straw for this fridge. Then I thought okay attack with some brute force. What's the worst that could happen. Since the return passage way kept getting blocked - open it up.

Again just so it is clear. We're talking about the passage way that returns warm air from the fridge side to the freezer side. When that warm moist air hits the cold in the freezer side it condenses right there in the passage way. And note there is no damper in this return passage way. The cold air enters the fridge section from the freezer section using a different passage way (in the rear of the compartments)  - which does have a damper.

Anyway - that's my story. I'd be interested what you do.

Oh, and the thermistors, there is a self test you can run described in the service manual.

https://visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9091.pdf

I don't think your problem is the thermistors. If they normally report and control the fridge when the vent isn't blocked - they're likely just fine.

Let me know

I ended up replacing the thermistors.  I want to reremove the styrofoam too.  Can you 

[Jimmyw]

On 10/9/2024 at 10:59 AM, Mr. mizer said:

Yeah I don't a notification either when you post, but just happened to look. I hate to jinks myself, but I must say I've been very happy so far with our fridge since I last posted in July - like 2 months ago. And working through what I consider the worst time of the year due to the high humidity. So not quite enough time to fully claim success, but looking good so far.

I really think you should go into the freezer roof section and open up that passage way between the freezer and refrigerator sections so the air flow isn't so constricted. I opened it up but cutting out some of the styrofoam that partially blocks the vent. Re-read posts from 2 months ago and hopefully what I wrote gives you enough of a guide.

I too was like you. I was at my last straw for this fridge. Then I thought okay attack with some brute force. What's the worst that could happen. Since the return passage way kept getting blocked - open it up.

Again just so it is clear. We're talking about the passage way that returns warm air from the fridge side to the freezer side. When that warm moist air hits the cold in the freezer side it condenses right there in the passage way. And note there is no damper in this return passage way. The cold air enters the fridge section from the freezer section using a different passage way (in the rear of the compartments)  - which does have a damper.

Anyway - that's my story. I'd be interested what you do.

Oh, and the thermistors, there is a self test you can run described in the service manual.

https://visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9091.pdf

I don't think your problem is the thermistors. If they normally report and control the fridge when the vent isn't blocked - they're likely just fine.

Let me know

I ended up replacing the thermistors before I realized you posted.  I would like to remove the styrofoam but not sure I know where you are talking about.  Is it behind the number #1 or #2 in my pic?