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Recommended Posts

Posted

Door bellows had a tear so time to replace. I got the part number 134728400 which is the current part number for my machine ATF8000FS1. I got the old one on off, installed the new part, all went smooth except the back part is a little tough to get on, but I did it. Put everything back together and the washer door won't shut. I double checked my work and all was done correctly.  The new one looked a little deeper then the one I took off. I checked the part number on the old one and it was stamped 134739800.  I looked online and 134728400 (the new part I had) is  the replacement for part number 134739800.  Is there a trick? Is there a known issue? I checked on various sites and everyone says that the new one has replaced the old one.

Any Ideas?

 

Brian

 

 

 

 

 

134728400 is  the replacement for part number 134739800 which is the part number stamped on the old bellows.

  • Replies 12
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Top Posters In This Topic

  • brianl0646

    5

  • darren412

    3

  • AccApp

    2

  • 16345Ed

    1

Posted

I would double check your installation. 

Is it puckered or anything?

Posted

Did you orient the spring on the outer ring the same way as the old one?

Posted

I checked everything a few times  and it seemed to be correct,  the part does look a little different from the one I removed its deeper.  It's much stiffer as well.   

Posted

Take off the front ring and the bellows front lip from the front panel. Confirm that the door closes with no interference. Then try putting it back on. It can be tight the first few closures but it shouldn’t be impossible.

Posted

I would recheck the installation of the door bellows again and if its correctly installed fully , you could possibly have a bad new gasket that is malformed. some times I will carefully use a plastic putty knife for the outer clamp on the front panel to make sure it is tight all the way in before putting on the outer clamp.  Make sure the door boot is also in and around the inner basket properly also during installation.    If its the correct  OEM replacement door bellows and it is definately installed correctly but the door is still not closing like it normally does , I would try a new gasket.   Remember also some certain model front load washers will close tightly at first because they are new.     Some front load washers even though the door is closed and shut properly , you can still push the door in some more and think that it is not shutting all the way even though it is shut and making a good proper seal. So don't be fooled by that either ok.  Good luck.

Posted

Yes, the door does close without it installed over the door lip.  The new one is noticeably stiffer and the rubber looks thicker.   Maybe add some lubrication? It looks like the door isn't sliding over the rubber smoothly and gets caught up on it.  Are these ever defective? 

Posted

brian make sure the gasket is also on evenly all the way around before the clamps are all tightened. It cant be twisted left to right and then clamped on because it will be out of round and not have an even seal on the door glass.     I'm assuming you have also checked to make sure the inner stainless steel drum is not out of round and is not keeping the inner part of the gasket from seating properly against the inner and outer drum.  The height of the inner and outer drum  has to proportionate to the door opening also.  Bad springs and shocks will cause the inner clamped part of the door boot to hang lower than the outer clamped part of the door boot and causing a bad alignment situation when the door is closed also

Posted

I tried it again, put the old one back on and it closed fine, so I put the new one on, checked everything lubed it with dish soap cleaned the door and it still won't close. I looks like the rubber is just too thick for the door to shut. I push it into the latch as hard as I can, the latch clicks, but it feels like if it was 1/8 inch less thick or the latch was 1/8 in longer it would be fine. Old one works just fine. I guess it's time to call in a professional and let them get frustrated with it.  From what I see around here  service call is around $100, the $120 an hour billed in 15 minute increments, they would probably want $150 in parts, so I'm at $380. Now that gets me to paying $120 more to have a brand new machine. Seems like a waste of resources.

Posted

Brian ,  you had said the door would not shut originally.    In your original complaint you had said the door would not shut correct ?     Now  It sounds like you are saying it clicks and latches now and is shutting and staying closed ?? .     If it clicks and latches and you feel that the door is staying shut, try running  a rinse and spin cycle with some towels 4-5 towels . if it stays shut and does not leak it probably just needs to reform itself a little since its a new gasket.  Its possible it might take a few loads for it to seat properly.     Obviously  , that's all according to the fact that you are mentioning that it is staying shut now when you close it. 

Posted

No, It clicks and latches when I put the old gasket back on. I put the new gasket on and it will not allow the door to shut. I am getting pretty good at removing and replacing these parts, but I think I am giving up. I'm on a time crunch, I'm a real estate agent and this house I listed closes tomorrow and we needed to fix the washer for the new buyer. I have done these before, and never had a problem, but this one will flat out not work. I think I will buy a new machine, which is a total waste, but looking at over $300 for a repair, it doesn't make sense.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

brianl0646 I know your post was from a few years ago but I’m dealing with same issue now and was wondering what you ever got figured out???

  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

Same here, another tech installed boot and now has this issue.  I’ve been called in to fix.  Put in door sag kit with no help. 

Edited by thepowertowin
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