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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

How to get the error codes on an Electrolux dishwasher

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 07 June 2013 · 1,637 views
Electrolux, frigidiare, diswasher and 1 more...
Brother PDuff calls the dance steps on this little ditty:

Remove bottom access panel and check main control for any lit leds. Lit led is specific to affected component. Access Component/Relay/Triac test as follows:

From power up press Sanitize and Delay Start
"Et" should be displayed (engineering test)
Press Rinse Only
"rt" should be displayed indicating component test mode. Press the following buttons to toggle on/off each component:

Auto Sense-washer motor
Heavy-water valve
Normal-drain motor
Quick-drain valve
Rinse Only-Clean light led
Hi Temp-all leds on control housing
Sanitize-fan state
Air Dry-dispenser

When checking heater, always fill tub with water.

Source: Frigidaire D/W EIDW6105GB1

Understanding and programming Bosch Dishwasher control codes

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 07 June 2013 · 1,274 views
Bosch, dishwasher, control, codes
Brother PDuff explains the esoteric and mystical art of programming the control codes in Bosh dishwasher control boards using model SHE44C06UC/22 as an example:

Control codes are particular to model. C0-C4. Your model is a C1 control. With unit turned off and fascia removed and module exposed, there are six buttons. Ignore the first button under display and label remaining buttons from left to right S1 S2 S3 S4 and S5. The leds above each button label L1 L2 L3 L4 and L5. Enter coding mode as follows:

Press and hold buttons S2 S3 S4 and S5 simultaneously, then turn dishwasher on using on/off switch. When in coding mode leds L2 L3 L4 and L5 will be blinking.

Release buttons S2 S3 S4 and S5 to view control coding in display. To change control coding, press button S2 as needed to scroll through codes. Your model is C1 or 21.

Turn dishwasher off to save control coding and exit mode. Reinstall control to console. Reinstall fascia. Check operation.

Source: Bosch Dishwasher control codes (C1-C9)?

How the drain solenoid used in older GE dishwashers works and why it can make a buzzing noise

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 25 March 2013 · 749 views
GE, dishwasher, drain, solenoid and 3 more...

When the electromagnet pulls the plunger down, it doesn't close the drain flapper all the way, (only about 3/4 of the way closed), then the water pressure hits the flapper and holds it sealed against the spray arm outlet so the water goes out the drain.

When the water pressure hits the drain flapper and opens it the rest of the way it takes the load off the solenoid. The solenoid is only energized for about 30 seconds and if it finishes draining before the the timer turns off power to the drain solenoid then the return springs will pull pressure against the magnetic force of the solenoid and can cause the buzzing noise.

Replacement drain solenoid kit

Posted Image

To learn more about your dishwasher or to order parts, click here.

Source: GE dishwasher buzzing drain solenoid

Kitchenaid Dishwasher Runs about 10 minutes and then Stops: Service Bulletin

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 18 March 2013 · 1,213 views
kitchenaid, dishwasher

Bad model#, but:
Posted Image

Customer Concern: Dishwasher stops approximately 10 minutes into the cycle, “cancel drains” and goes directly to standby mode (off).

Cause: Testing has determined that cycle stopping may result from a software error that can cause a false error code that cancels the cycle. Techs will see a 6-1 error code recorded in service diagnostics. This issue is very sporadic, and is affected by the location of the household and region of the country. Other conditions that may also cause this “cancel drain” cycle are: siphoning through the drain hose, severe sudsing, and debris in the sump.

If the customer experiences a “cancel drain” issue, first check the following:
1. Make sure the dishwasher is installed according to installation instructions provided with the unit.
2. Check for water siphoning out through the drain hose. Ensure that the drain hose end termination point is above the water level in the tub. The drain loop attached to the side of the tub is not sufficient to prevent siphoning.
3. Check for severe sudsing or a malfunctioning Rinse Aid dispenser.
4. Check for locked rotor in wash pump.
5. Check for and remove debris in the bottom of the sump/chopper area.
6. Check for water supply and proper water level in the dishwasher.
7. If all the above checks are OK, then the control will need to be replaced with one that has the upgraded software designed to handle any additional power variation.

Verify new board is Control Board W10380685, the upgraded part.

Source: kitchenaid dishwasher KUDS301X runs only for 10 minutes then stops

Tips for Repairing or Replacing a Dishwasher without Making a Mess

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 02 January 2013 · 858 views
dishwasher, leak, repair, replace
If you're getting ready to do a major repair on a dishwasher, especially one that requires the dishwasher to be completely removed from the cabinet, Professor john63 offers some hard-won battle tactics based on his years of experience on the Front Lines:

I would describe myself as an expert in the dishwasher category---but not by design or intention.

After becoming an LG authorized servicer---we were literally inundated with warranty calls for failing/failed SUMP ASSYs.

Replacing a SUMP ASSY---requires removing the dishwasher from under the counter.

In addition to that---we *were* also an ASC for Samung as well.

After well over a hundred SUMP ASSY replacements---I've learned several things.

1) In kitchens with "built-up" floors---customers are required to hire a flooring contractor to remove a section of the kitchen floor (tile or otherwise)---to allow proper removal/repair/re-installation of the dishwasher. For the LG D/Ws---a mininum of 34 inches is needed from the floor-to-the-bottom-of-the-countertop.

If the dishwasher was out-of-warranty---I'd strongly recommend that the customer *replace* the existing dishwasher with a new model (usually GE) specifically designed for *built-up floors* (a brilliant idea,by the way).

2) Before beginning a dishwasher repair that involves removal from under-the-counter---quickly size-up the water and drain connections.
If a cheap/plastic SHUT-OFF VALVE or a less-than-ideal drain arrangement exists---plan your repairs and estimates accordingly.
Know where the Hot Water Heater AND Main Water Shut-off valves are located---before starting a repair.
Replace any water or drain hose that looks remotely questionable.
Once the repairs are completed---totally inspect the water supply and drain hoses. Verify that none have even a slow weeping drip. Run test the dishwasher.
Sometimes a water line will develope a slow drip *after* the pressure fluctuates from the water valve opening and closing.
When done---double check these connections yet again before leaving.

I wish I could brag that I have a flawless record of no water damage or insurance claims---but I don't.

In one case---I had replaced an LG Sump Assy---the installation of the dishwasher was so perfect (by someone else) that I only needed to slide out the dishwasher and place it on it's back and exchange the Sump Assy----and then re-install.
The next morning---I got a call from the customer that a section of the drop ceiling in her basement had collapsed and the floor was wet.
Turns out that the water connection under the sink was only *hand tight*---and the movement of the water line during my repair caused a slow drip (perhaps 1 drip every 5 seconds).
Over 12 hours later---this created enough of a water leak to cause quite a mess.
This was an insurance claim---that was totally preventable---if I had been more thorough.

Another leak occured when I again---repaired an LG dishwasher---in a newer home with REALLY cheap and odd plumbing fixtures.
This leak was slow like the first one---but did not enter the basement.
The cause of the leak was---the REALLY cheap (and weird) shut-off valve.
Never seen one before or since. I didn't *like* it when I first saw it too.
That was problably my sub-conscious brain telling me---maybe I ought to replace that unbelieveably fragile-looking shut-off valve.
Small insurance claim for that one---sucks. Totally avoidable---had I followed my instinct to get rid of a questionable valve:)

3) The rest--is the usual stuff...

Re-install the D/W better than it was (most are installed terribly)
Leave the work area cleaner than it was before arriving
Protect flooring (cardboard works well for me)
Keep toolbag/box and tools on a mat or cardboard sheet etc

Good luck :)

Source: Should we dish it out?

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