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How to replace the water tank and tubing in a GE Arctica Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 10 September 2011 · 2,694 views

Merit Apprentice toy4x4 shares his combat tips for emerging victorious from this repair:

Having found the thread on this topic in the archived forum, I wanted to reply but could not. Here is the original thread


http://applianceguru...rum1/28636.html

I had the same problem as discussed in the above thread, however I went down the path of replacing the actual tank and tubing. I would have gone the route of just splicing on a new tube but I ordered the tank with tubing. I searched around town for 5/16" polyethelyne tubing and 5/16" quick couplers and most places thought I was nuts using that size. For this reason I went ahead and ordered the tank and tubing thinking I would just replace the tank anyway because it had been years since the water in the tank had been circulated due to me just shutting off the ice and water. Stupid firdge messed up my wood floor twice with leaks. I recently figured out my issue in the house was a bad water pressure regulator, so I fixed it and decided to give the ice and water a shot again.

So to actually replace the tank and tubing, it is fairly simple. Below are the steps I took (+/1 one or two). Keep in mind I also had to replace the valve assembly so you should assume the it is out of the fridge and the 4 water tubes in the back are just hanging there. I also re-ordered my steps to the logical order so you can do it the "right' way

0. turn of your water line. Mine had been off for years...
1. Remove the front kick plate/vent cover at the bottom of the fridge. This is the black plastic cover.
2. Behind the cover, you will see a long 5/16" hose. Find the quick coupler that splices the long tank hose to the hose that goes into the door.
3. Press in the white collar and pull the hose out.
4. Remove the bottom three drawers in the fridge along with their "shelf"
5. The cover that goes over the top of the water tank you simple push up in the middle to remove it.
6. Remove the two screws from the tank
7. Pull the two hoses out through the rubber grommet
8. Take the tank and hoses outside and cut them up with a chop saw for fun
9. Insert the long and short hoses from the new tank through the grommet. You may have to work behind the fridge to help then go through
10 route the long hose back up to the front and push it into the quick disconnect.
11. Re-install the cover over the top of the tank
12. put the drawers back in
13. Install the valve assembly and tubing int the back
14. Enjoy water and ice again. (takes awhile to fill the tank up)

This really only took me 15-30 minutes. It's that simple.


Part link for the water tank ==> Water Tank Assembly


Source: Replace Water Tank and tubing - GE Artica PSI23SGMD - Part 2


How to troubleshoot an F11 error code in a Whirlpool Duet Sport / Kenmore Elite front loading washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 09 September 2011 · 3,275 views

F11 is one of the worst fault codes. Even the Factory Is not clear on its cause.

What I do is check the two blue wires that go from the motor control unit (MCU) to the central control unit (CCU). Make sure they are connected well and are not broken. Ohm 'em out, end to end.

Beyond that, your probabilities of successful repair are as follows:

- Replace the CCU: 95% chance, part link ==> Central Control Unit

- Replace the MCU: 25% chance, part link ==> Motor Control Unit

- Replace the wire harness: 10% chance. Okay, the wire harness may be 5% chance.

That code may also mean your F'd and you will be back 11 times. Just kidding! Good luck with it.

On a happy note, any parts ordered thru this site have a 365-day return policy, even on electrical parts that have been installed! :rocker:


Source: KM (WP) clothes washer M# 110.42822203 displaying "F11"


How to fix an LG-Kenmore refrigerator where the light in the beer compartment stays on and melts

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 09 September 2011 · 2,501 views

Masters john63 and Reg reveal a stealth recall campaign for this problem:



---an undocumented Service Campaign.
Some LG servicers are not aware of this as well.

:whistling:
some info for some models
CPSC, LG Electronics and Sears, Roebuck and Co. Announce Recall to Repair Refrigerators
(at least in) Canada: (maybe also USA)
"LG has committed to giving a lifetime warranty with regard to the light bulb defect
to the owners of affected LG and Kenmore refrigerators at no charge to the customer.
The warranty includes performing the necessary in-house repairs and possibly replacing the refrigerator in cases where
the plastic liner has warped to the point of being irreparable due to the increased heat generated by the light bulb."
LG AND KENMORE REFRIGERATOR ALERT: OVERHEATING LIGHT BULB



Source: 795.77569600 Sears by LG FF lites won't go out!


All about those elusive shipping bolts that come with LG front loading washers

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 08 September 2011 · 2,112 views

Master Reg explains the in's and out's of shipping bolts used with LG washing machines:



... the washer was transported without any bolts to secure the tub...

from the WM2487HWM Owners Manual:
The appliance is fitted with shipping bolts to prevent internal damage during transportation.
Packing and all shipping bolts must be removed before using the washer.
Take out the 4 bolts and braces by twisting the braces slightly.
Keep the 4 bolts, braces and the wrench for future use.
• Whenever the appliance is transported, the shipping bolts and braces must be reinstalled.
click on picture
Posted Image

click on picture
Posted Image


Source: LG WM2487HWM won't complete final spin gives UE error


How to troubleshoot a Samsung dishwasher with an HE error code

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 08 September 2011 · 5,221 views

Master john63 enlightens us:

Usually a failed HEATING ELEMENT or HEATER RELAY.


Disconnect power & remove the dishwasher from under the counter.

The HEATER RELAY is located on the right side of the D/W. A metal panel/shield (on the right side) must be removed to gain access for testing.

Testing the HEATING ELEMENT *can* be done from the bottom/front---but is easier if the D/W is placed on it's back---and removing the bottom cover/panel.

In many cases I have seen failed HEATING ELEMENTS or RELAYS on Samsung D/Ws---in homes which had an INSTANT WATER HEATER (AKA: Tankless Water Heater).
This type of Water Heater requires a minimum GALLON-PER-MINUTE of water flow---before it will *heat* the water.
Many dishwashers have a lower GPM flow rate than required---this results in NO HOT WATER at all during water fill.
The D/W heating sytem remains "on" for long periods of time---each time the D/W is used.
Eventually the HEATING ELEMENT or HEATER RELAY fails.


Part link for the heating element ==> Heating Element


Source: Samsung dishwasher DMR78AHS -- HE is displayed






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