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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



How to replace the drain pump in an ASKO W600, Type WM33 washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 20 July 2011 · 1,475 views

1. W600 and W640: Remove the front panel (see page 28).
2. Remove the pump and pump housing from the rubber buffers in the bottom plate.
(Remember, there is always water in the drain pump.)
3. Disconnect one hose by removing the hose clip,
and then turn it to remove it from the rear of the pump.
4. Disconnect the terminal block and the three screws that secure the pump to the pump housing.
5. Take out the pump.
6. Secure the terminal block to the new pump.
7. Secure the pump in the pump housing with the three screws.
8. Fit the hose and secure it with the hose clip.
9. Secure the pump and pump housing to the rubber buffers in the bottom plate.
10. W600 and W640: Replace the front panel.

For service manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

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Source: ASKO, W600 Washer, Type:WM33


How to fix an Amana dishwasher that won't run & LED flashes 3 times after you press Start; Clean Light flashes continuously

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 18 July 2011 · 1,498 views

PROBLEM: Won’t Start and Start/Resume Key LED Flashes 3 Times When Start/Resume Key is Pressed
Control programmed to not start if it suspects door switch is stuck closed.
Control looks for switch to open between cycles.
 Customer didn’t open door between cycles.
 Door switch contacts stuck closed.
1. Open and close door and then press Start/Resume key. Instruct customer.
2. Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
3. Measure resistance of door switch contacts while checking mechanical operation of latch assembly.




Part Link ==> Door Interlock Switch



Source: Amana dishwasher ADB1600AWD1 won't run



How to clean out a gunked-up detergent dispenser in a Whirlpool Duet washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 18 July 2011 · 2,845 views

here is how i fixed my problem. from searching i got the feeling others have had similar trouble. with some references from this site i was able to figure out the rest of a simple repair. i am posting to save others some time and confusion.

recently i have had frequent SUDS errors even after reducing amount of soap, and some residual soap in dispenser. i watched the wash and noticed no soap in water at start of wash. opened dispenser drawer and saw water passing through rinse and bleach side of drawer on right. during rinse cycle, water passed thru soap side of drawer.


turns out that over the years some soap crud built up under a actuator arm that is spring reset and the spring could no longer overcome the increased resistance. boiling hot water and a toothbrush cleaned it up, reduced the friction, and restored normal function.


process:

UNPLUG machine from electric power.

remove dispenser drawer.

remove top of machine. Remove the top by removing three screws at the rear of the lid and sliding the top toward the rear of the washer about 1/4 of an inch before lifting.

looking down from in front, at the front left (above the dispenser drawer), there is a lever arm that can point at one of four positions labelled roman numeral I - IV. a spring pulls it to the left. to the right of the lever, there is a cam which pulls the lever to the right to place in the correct position for cycle. aroung the cam there is a tiny indicator arrow and there are tiny roman numerals I - IV to correspond with the numerals for the lever arm.

disconnect the spring from both ends and set it aside.

the lever arm should swing freely. manipulate the lever and look in the empty drawer slot and see that under side of the lever arm directs water from left to right to correspond with prewash, wash, bleach, rinse (I, II, III, IV). in my case the arm moved easily but not easily enough for the spring to pull it left due to soap crud. i set small towels to prevent water from dripping down off the top of the dispenser, dipped a toothbrush in boiling water, and scrubbed away the crud. much of the water passes thru to the drawer so there is little for the towels to catch. very important to turn brush sideways so bristles go under the lever axle and work it all around. now the lever should turn MUCH more freely and the spring should easily reset it to the left as far as the cam will allow.

reattach the spring. note where the cam is pointing (small roman numeral) and set the lever to same position (large roman numeral).

replace the top.

replace the drawer.

replace power cord.

done.



Source: whirlpool duet washer GHW9200LQ dispenser


Replacing the drum support spider and shaft only without the complete basket in a Whirlpool Duet Sport washer


If the machine was quite in spin before the spider broke then most likely seal and bearings are OK.

You don't have to replace the complete spin basket with the spider attached,(ref#11), in the Duet SPORTS. You can purchase just the spider/shaft assembly for the Duet SPORTS, ref#27 in the parts break down picture.

Much more of a reasonable price and also don't get hit with an extra $50+ shipping charge for over-sized package shipment.

Spider only - $62.95
http://www.repaircli...ber=WFW8300SW04
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Complete basket with spider/shaft - $173.35
http://www.repaircli...ber=WFW8300SW04





Source: Whirlpool WFW8300SW04


Replacement analog pressure switch for the Whirlpool Duet Steam washer to fix F35 and "SUDS" errors


The original pressure switch for this washer has been discontinued which has created a conundrum for those with the F35 or SUDS error codes. Here's the work-around:

Well the part number W10312527 is a replacement with a little work.

(maybe just a plastic key tab on the connector that could be cut off?).


that is correct, the tech had to snip a little plastic off so the key type insert would fit.
The machine worked fine with this part. The washer was a Whirlpool WFW9600TW00

Good Luck


Part Link ==> Pressure Switch

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Source: Analog Pressure Switch... F35..SUDS







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