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Hi everyone, I bought an old chest freezer that I want to adjust to use as a fridge. I am aware that freezer thermostats generally have a screw that can be adjusted to change the temperature range, and that many also have a "differential screw" (there may be other terms for it but I don't know them), which increases or decreases the difference between the cut-in and cut-out temperatures. I have a Frigidaire 5304513033 thermostat, and I can see two screws on it, but I don't know which is one and I'm having a hard time figuring it out through trial and error. Does anyone know where I can learn more about this part? Any advice or suggestions would be a BIG help to me. Thanks! Thermostat: <Thttps://www.frigidaireapplianceparts.com/PartDetail/Temperature-Control-Thermostat/5304513033/4546111>

Viking model DFFB304L standalone 15.9 cuft freezer. Issue: Freezer trips the Thermistor alarm but also continues to run constantly. Thermistor seems to work correctly. Usually immediately upon plugging in, freezer beeps 5 times and the temp scale flashes left-to-right indicating thermistor alarm. If I clear the alarm, it usually trips almost immediately again. Sometimes it will not trip for a few minutes to few hours, but this is less common. Service Manual indicates that thermistor alarm is triggered by an OPEN circuit at thermistor, which also should cause the compressor and fan to shut off. However it continues to run constantly with alarm tripped. Pulled thermistor while power on to simulate OPEN circuit, and it shuts off compressor/fan immediately. Tested thermistor resistance at different temperatures and compared to book values and it is very close at all temps ranges. Tested both with thermistor removed from freezer and while installed using digital multimeter. Entered the diagnostic mode and display shows what it reads the thermistor temperature. Using the binary code from service manual, confirmed that it is very close to the actual temp (tested with IR gun), so seems that the computer is reading the thermistor, and reading it accurately. Also as I keep door open, the value changes so it seems to be reading constantly and updating. However alarm is still triggered during before, during, after this diagnostic test. Question: Service Manual indicated the only reason for thermistor alarm is if it detects OPEN circuit, but freezer runs constantly, and testing with multimeter and diagnostic mode seem to indicate the thermistor is operating correctly and that the computer is reading the value correctly and consistently. Is there any other failure mode that someone is aware of that would trip the thermistor alarm? Furthermore, any ideas what the issue could be, and how I could diagnose? If it is a problem with one of the PCBs, I have the wiring and PCB diagrams, what should I test to look for an error on the computer?

My DCS Range, Model RG-304 will not heat properly. When I set the temperature, recently it will not heat up to the desired temperature. I used a digital thermometer to see what it was doing and it will start heating but will cycle on/off and not reach the desired temp. I tested it at 400 degrees, it cycled at about 250 ultimately reaching around 325 but then cooled off to around 200 and then back up to 300ish. I live in the Cascade Range in Oregon about 80 miles from a population center with any technicians, and can not find a technician to come look at the oven. I bought the stove to avoid too much electronics so that I can fix issues, but can not find a service manual. I'd appreciate any advice or recommendations about the likely issue, is it the igniter, or my thought the oven temperature sensor. I'd also love to find a link to a service manual to help make the repair as quickly as possible without taking it all apart to find the part. Thanks, James

I have a Samsung rf263teaesr french door fridge. A month or so ago is was cooling down to 30 degrees. Luckily I have a home warranty (highly recommend, I work in the real estate business) A service guy came out, replaced the control board and I believe the thermostat. Both tested bad. It then would not hold a consistent temperature. I put 2 thermometers in the unit and the temp would range from 34 to 49 degrees. He came out again and replaced the control board. Still had the same problem, and even if the temperature inside was 45 degrees, the display would always show the current temperature being where I had it set which was 37. If I dropped the temp to 35, the display would show the temp inside as being 37 (which was where I had it previously set) then in a few minutes the actual and the set temps would both match up at 35 even though the 2 thermometers inside say 45. I then used a laser and it registered 45, I took out a jar of liquid, put a meat probe in it and it said 45. So I am confident the temp is indeed 45 even though the fridge doesn't agree and says whatever I have it set at. I also notice my fridge never seems to make noice like it's trying to cool. My guy came back and replaces the cooling fan or something like that. This morning all is still the same. Temp somewhere in the 40s, display showing a temp that is where I have it set at. To me who doesn't know anything sounds like a thermostat issue. I am starting to feel like the repair guy thinks I'm crazy, but the temp from 4 thermometers should match the set temp of the fridge after being closed all night. Any thoughts?

Hello, I have a Kenmore refrigerator 596.72913200 which has the warmer compartment too cold. The control has been set to the lowest (warmest) setting, "1", but items in the fridge area are freezing. I have not taken apart, and hope to find some guides of how to fix. I cannot move the fridge from where it sits (long story), so I am hoping to address the problem by checking replacing the thermostat in the warmer compartment. For now let's assume the condensor coils are clean -- I am getting good cooling in the freezer. Looks like the "thermostat" is simply a door that closes off the cool air from the freezer (where the evaporator is). Could the problem be this door or the associated belt damper, or the damper control assembly? Thanks in advance Jake The Repairman

Hi all! I need some help troubleshooting my furnace/thermostat. My furnace and thermostat were working without issues yesterday (10/20). I woke up this morning (10/21) to all my vents blowing cold air (no heat) and a thermostat with no power (as exhibited by the digital thermostat with a screen off). My home also has a humidifying system connected to the HVAC system and its display was also off. I determined that both the thermostat and humidifier were both not receiving power from the furnace. While inspecting the furnace, I found there to be power coming in to the transformer, being transformed, but *no power to the furnace terminals*. I was able to *find and reset a thermal limiter*, and after doing this – I began to receive power at the furnace terminals again! At this time – my humidifier display began receiving power again. *The problem I am still having is that there does not seem to be enough power being sent from the furnace and up to the thermostat that was running without problems no more than 36 hours ago*. I am getting an electrical reading of at the correct AC voltage of 26v at the furnace terminals (basement), but when I read up at the thermostat (ground floor), all but one of my readings are at 14.5v. I have attached a picture of the thermostat wires as well as the wires at the furnace. I did not touch any of the wiring at the thermostat, but I did interact with the wires at the furnace while performing my troubleshooting. All of the wiring is as the units were installed since I moved in to the house. I moved in about 2 months ago and I have had no issues with the HVAC system until over last night. In the pictures, you’ll notice than an “add a wire” was installed. There are a lot of wires because a humidifier is also installed. You might also notice the loose brown wire at the bottom of the furnace configuration photo. This was labeled as “Green Thermostat” despite it being a brown coated white wire. I was able to trace this wire back to the humidifier, though. *Any suggestions for troubleshooting would be much appreciated!* Thanks for your help! A couple of other notes that might be helpful… HVAC Model: Carrier 58GS-100-161GA Circuit Board Part #: HH84AA020 Thermostat connections: White Wire connected to W1 (Reads at 26v when connected to R) Yellow Wire connected to Y1 (Reads at 14.5v when connected to R) Green Wire connected to G (Reads at 14.5v when connected to R) Red Wire connected to R (Reads at 14.5v when connected to R) Green Wire connected to C (Reads at 14.5v when connected to R)

Maytag Dryer Instruction Sheet for 694674 Thermostat Kit View File PUB 279587 Rev. D Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 07/15/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Hi, I have followed trouble shooting steps to fix my microwave. I have come to the point where it is suggested to replace a part. I think this is the thermostat? I have been shown to replace this part in pictures. It looks like the text on the unit says "N120" one a different line a "0" and then the last line reads "5706" see pic in links. Can some one help me with a location that I could buy it from? Thanks for any help.

I need to disable the thermostat on my portable Frigidaire AC unit. I dont know the model number and unable to locate it but it is only about 1 year old and 110V window unit. The thermostat (I think) is only 2 wires and was sitting in front of unit behind filter, I moved it away from the cool air flow area but still does'nt keep the AC unit going only the fan. I am unable to adjust the electronic control below 60 degrees but need the AC to remain on at all times when unit is in operation. Does anyone w/ more knowledge than myself have the answer? I was wondering if I could just splice the 2 wires connected to the thermo sensor together w/ a wire nut shorting out the sensor? Thanks in advance for any help.