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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

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About this blog

Pearls of appliance repair wisdom from the Appliantology Forums

Entries in this blog


What looks different about this cheap Chinese replacement motor for a Kenmore or Whirlpool dryer compared to the OEM replacement motor?

Buying cheap, generic parts is always false economy and ends up costing you way more in the long run, not just dollars but aggravation, time spent here at this forum when you coulda been squeezin' on your lady-love... just sayin'. Don't waste time and money on cheap, imitation replacement parts-- come git you a real, OEM replacement motor with a one year return policy: Part number: AP3094245 Source: Kenmore electric dryer shuts off

A warning about buying cheap appliance parts from Amazon or Ebay

Like to shop around Amazon or Ebay for cheap stuff, including appliance parts? Did you know that you may be buying either cheap Chinese knock-off parts or used parts? Do these parts come with a one year replacement or refund warranty? No? Hmm... did you know that all parts purchased here at Appliantology.org are new, OEM parts that can be returned for a refund or replacement for 1 year, including electrical parts like circuit boards that have already been installed? Yeah, I know, it's insane! Yet, some people think they're being clever and saving a couple of shekels by purchasing parts through Amazon or Ebay. Here's a typical story of how that works out for people: This guy comes here to Appliantology and gets free repair help. We link him to the genuine, new, OEM replacement part that comes with the 1 year return/refund policy. Does he buy the part through the link we provided? Noooo! He saved one and a half shekels buying it through some hack shop vendor of cheap Chinese knock-off parts on Amazon. Let's see how that worked out for him... Don't suffer the sad fate of this poor schlep: only buy new, OEM parts, preferably from the people who are helping you troubleshoot and fix your appliance! Source: washes, tumbles, rinses, drains, but NO final spin.

How to tell whether the touchpanel or control board is bad in a Whirlpool dishwasher

Many times when troubleshooting a Whirlpool-built dishwasher (also sold under the Kenmore and Kitchenaid brands), you'll have a problem that looks like it could be either a bad touchpanel or the control board, but you can't really be sure. Examples include: - Normal light keeps blinking but the dishwasher won't run - none of the lights on the panel work and the dishwasher won't run Could take on lots of other variations but the thing they'll all have in common is that dishwasher won't run. The conundrum you face is which part to replace: the touchpanel or the control board? Experience says that it's almost always the touchpanel that goes bad in these cases-- a keypad gets stuck closed or worn on the inside so it no longer makes contact. Fortunately, there's a way to tell for sure without any guesswork! Remove the kickpanels below the door and you'll find a tech sheet in a plastic pouch (unless some sleaze bag stole it). Therein it is written this simple procedure for determining whether the touchpanel or control board is the culprit: Source: Whirlpool Quiet Partner II normal light blinking

How to enter service test diagnostic mode in Bosch WTMC dryers

Once in test mode, you can select the tests to run using this procedure: Selecting WTMC / WTXD Dryer Tests Test Position on knob WTMC33/WTXD53 WTMC63/65, WTXD83/85 View fault codes 1st position on right (cw) Extra Dry (Reg./Cot.) Extra Dry (Reg./Cot.) Safety test2nd position on right (cw) Very Dry (Reg./Cot.) Very Dry (Reg./Cot.) Display test (LED's/LCD's) 3rd position on right (cw) Regular Dry (Reg./Cot.) Regular Dry (Reg./Cot.) Control elements test 4th position on right (cw) Damp Dry (Reg./Cot.) Damp Dry (Reg./Cot.) Consumer test 5th position on right (cw) Air Fluff Very Dry (Mix) Moisture sensor resistance measurement 6th position on right (cw) 20 min. Time Dry Regular Dry (Mix) Sales demo program 7th position on right (cw) 40 min. Time Dry Air Fluff 240V:208V changeover 8th position on right (cw) 60 min. Time Dry Medium Time Dry Automatic end-of-tape program 1st position on left (ccw) Very Dry (Perm. Press) Very Dry (Perm. Press) Source: Bosch dryer wtmc3300us/01 lint filter light

Rigging and using a compressor test cord to manually operate a compressor

One of the many things that can make a refrigerator warm up is the compressor is trying but failing to start. You may occasionally hear this type of noise from the back of the refrigerator (starts about 15 seconds in): This is the sound of your compressor trying, but failing miserably, to start. Best case scenario: Bad compressor start relay. Worst case scenario: open compressor start winding or seized compressor bearing == buy a new refrigerator. Question: How do you tell which is which? Answer: Compressor test cord. Question: What's a compressor test cord and how do I make one? Answer: Question: How do you know which is the start, run, and common connection posts on the compressor? Answer: Use Brother Bobice's procedure for identifying the compressor electrical terminals:

Understanding and repairing the F35 and SUD error code combo in Whirlpool Duet front load washers

The infamous F35 and SUD error code combo is one of the more common and confusing errors in Whirlpool-built Duet washer (also sold under the Kenmore label). The tech sheet is misleading and no help on this issue and has confused many a fine appliantologist locked in combat with this beast: Here's a typical tech sheet for these machines: http://appliantology.org/files/file/842-whirlpool-washer-wfw9500t-tech-bundle/ Brother Willie shines the light of wisdom on what's really going on with the infamous F35-SUD combo: Source: Kenmore FL Washer 110.46757801

Maytag Performa washer thrust bearing re-assembly order

If you ever have to replace the thrust bearing, basket drive hub, or snubber in one of these Maytag Performa top-loading washers, you may get the washers and spacers that comprise the thrust bearing out of order. Brother fairbank56 has put together this nifty roadmap showing the proper sequence for re-assembling the thrust bearing. If you boogar up or lose these parts, you can buy the replacement kit here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Basket-Drive-Hub-Kit/12002213/1042142

How to run each component in an Asko DW70 dishwasher from the control panel

A powerful and indispensable troubleshooting technique to use when working on any modern appliance with a computer control board is to run the self test built into the control board. Almost all control boards used in appliances today have some type of self test. The trick is knowing the key dance to get into it. The other trick is knowing how to interpret the results. Brother PDuff shares with us the key dance for putting an Asko DW70 dishwasher into self test mode where you can activate each component in the dishwasher individually. This makes quick work of checking each component to see if it's operating correctly. Source: Asko DW Reoccurring Problem With Basepan Float Switch

The Warm Refrigerator Troubleshooting Flowchart

Refrigerator warming up and you can't think straight enough to figure out what's wrong because you're in a pure, blind panic? Well, you just unbunch them panties and sing along with the Samurai in his Warm Refrigerator Troubleshooting Flowchart and you'll have the problem figured out before you can say, "pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis."

GE front load washer "Smart" dispense pedestal problem

If you ever run into one of these overly-"smart" GE front loaders with a "smart" dispense pedestal, Brother nickfixit offers these sage words of advice: Along with this tech bulletin from GE on this problem: http://appliantology.org/files/file/934-ge-profile-front-load-washer-smart-dispenser-inop-tech-bulletin/ Source: GE SPBD880J0MV detergent dispensing pedestal

GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage

Here's another tasty and expeditious troubleshooting tip from our friends at FixYourBoard.com, offering top quality control board re-building, specializing in bringing NLA control boards back from the dead. Here's something to watch out for when troubleshooting GE wall ovens. Same trick may apply to other brands and models. Source: GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage.

LG refrigerator frosting up inside the freezer, but it's not a defrosting problem

This has been a long-time vexing problem in some LG refrigerator models. You'll also see this on Kenmore and GE refrigerators that were built by LG. The unit defrosts properly but builds up rime ice inside the freezer looking like there's an air leak, like from a bad door seal. But the door seals are good and no source of air leak can be found. Brother Durham found this tech memo that explains it and offers the cure: a redesigned evaporator fan motor. Here's the upgraded evaporator fan: http://www.repaircli...er=795.78092900 Source: LG built Kenmore frosting in freezer, not defrost issue.

Troubleshooting tip for Whirlpool inverter-type microwave ovens with an F7 error code

The high voltage system in microwave ovens is used to power the magnetron and generate the microwave sound energy that cooks the food. This voltage is in the range of 2,000 vdc. There are two ways of producing this high voltage. The older, conventional way is using a high voltage transformer, capacitor and rectifier. This is a pretty reliable configuration and easy to troubleshoot and repair. The other way of producing the high voltage for the magnetron is using an inverter board. These are ofter nightmares to troubleshoot and expensive to repair. In these Whirlpool inverter-type microwaves (built by Panasonic), the F7 error code indicates a problem with the inverter board. Sometimes you may see a burned spot on the inverter board confirming the error code. But absent any visual confirmation like that, Brothers JJ Surfer and Chat_in_FL offer this heads-up when troubleshooting Whirlpool inverter-type microwave ovens that throw an F7 error code. Test the magnetron by ohming between the terminals, should be very low resistance, typically less than an ohm. Then check from one of the terminals to the magentron casing. Should wide open-- if you read continuity or some resistance, then the magnetron is bad. If the magnetron checks good, you can get the replacement inverter board here: 1100 watt Inverter board: http://www.repaircli...mber=GH6177XPS5 40 watt Inverter board: http://www.repaircli...mber=GH6177XPS5 Source: Whirlpool Microwave

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