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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

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About this blog

Pearls of appliance repair wisdom from the Appliantology Forums

Entries in this blog

 

How to enter service test diagnostic mode in Bosch WTMC dryers

Once in test mode, you can select the tests to run using this procedure: Selecting WTMC / WTXD Dryer Tests Test Position on knob WTMC33/WTXD53 WTMC63/65, WTXD83/85 View fault codes 1st position on right (cw) Extra Dry (Reg./Cot.) Extra Dry (Reg./Cot.) Safety test2nd position on right (cw) Very Dry (Reg./Cot.) Very Dry (Reg./Cot.) Display test (LED's/LCD's) 3rd position on right (cw) Regular Dry (Reg./Cot.) Regular Dry (Reg./Cot.) Control elements test 4th position on right (cw) Damp Dry (Reg./Cot.) Damp Dry (Reg./Cot.) Consumer test 5th position on right (cw) Air Fluff Very Dry (Mix) Moisture sensor resistance measurement 6th position on right (cw) 20 min. Time Dry Regular Dry (Mix) Sales demo program 7th position on right (cw) 40 min. Time Dry Air Fluff 240V:208V changeover 8th position on right (cw) 60 min. Time Dry Medium Time Dry Automatic end-of-tape program 1st position on left (ccw) Very Dry (Perm. Press) Very Dry (Perm. Press) Source: Bosch dryer wtmc3300us/01 lint filter light
 

Rigging and using a compressor test cord to manually operate a compressor

One of the many things that can make a refrigerator warm up is the compressor is trying but failing to start. You may occasionally hear this type of noise from the back of the refrigerator (starts about 15 seconds in): This is the sound of your compressor trying, but failing miserably, to start. Best case scenario: Bad compressor start relay. Worst case scenario: open compressor start winding or seized compressor bearing == buy a new refrigerator. Question: How do you tell which is which? Answer: Compressor test cord. Question: What's a compressor test cord and how do I make one? Answer: Question: How do you know which is the start, run, and common connection posts on the compressor? Answer: Use Brother Bobice's procedure for identifying the compressor electrical terminals:
 

Understanding and repairing the F35 and SUD error code combo in Whirlpool Duet front load washers

The infamous F35 and SUD error code combo is one of the more common and confusing errors in Whirlpool-built Duet washer (also sold under the Kenmore label). The tech sheet is misleading and no help on this issue and has confused many a fine appliantologist locked in combat with this beast: Here's a typical tech sheet for these machines: http://appliantology.org/files/file/842-whirlpool-washer-wfw9500t-tech-bundle/ Brother Willie shines the light of wisdom on what's really going on with the infamous F35-SUD combo: Source: Kenmore FL Washer 110.46757801
 

Maytag Performa washer thrust bearing re-assembly order

If you ever have to replace the thrust bearing, basket drive hub, or snubber in one of these Maytag Performa top-loading washers, you may get the washers and spacers that comprise the thrust bearing out of order. Brother fairbank56 has put together this nifty roadmap showing the proper sequence for re-assembling the thrust bearing. If you boogar up or lose these parts, you can buy the replacement kit here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Basket-Drive-Hub-Kit/12002213/1042142
 

How to run each component in an Asko DW70 dishwasher from the control panel

A powerful and indispensable troubleshooting technique to use when working on any modern appliance with a computer control board is to run the self test built into the control board. Almost all control boards used in appliances today have some type of self test. The trick is knowing the key dance to get into it. The other trick is knowing how to interpret the results. Brother PDuff shares with us the key dance for putting an Asko DW70 dishwasher into self test mode where you can activate each component in the dishwasher individually. This makes quick work of checking each component to see if it's operating correctly. Source: Asko DW Reoccurring Problem With Basepan Float Switch
 

Service Pointer: Whirlpool - Kitchenaid dishwasher runs partway thru cycle, cancel-drains then shuts off

This is a tricky one and can bite you in the rumpus if you don't know about this quiet little Whirlpool Service Pointer on this problem that Brother Chat_in_FL snagged and posted for us: Revised control board: http://www.repaircli...0380685/1938381 Source: Kitchenaid Dishwasher KUDS30IXBL0 runs partway thru cycle then cancels & drains
 

GE front load washer "Smart" dispense pedestal problem

If you ever run into one of these overly-"smart" GE front loaders with a "smart" dispense pedestal, Brother nickfixit offers these sage words of advice: Along with this tech bulletin from GE on this problem: http://appliantology.org/files/file/934-ge-profile-front-load-washer-smart-dispenser-inop-tech-bulletin/ Source: GE SPBD880J0MV detergent dispensing pedestal
 

GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage

Here's another tasty and expeditious troubleshooting tip from our friends at FixYourBoard.com, offering top quality control board re-building, specializing in bringing NLA control boards back from the dead. Here's something to watch out for when troubleshooting GE wall ovens. Same trick may apply to other brands and models. Source: GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage.
 

LG refrigerator frosting up inside the freezer, but it's not a defrosting problem

This has been a long-time vexing problem in some LG refrigerator models. You'll also see this on Kenmore and GE refrigerators that were built by LG. The unit defrosts properly but builds up rime ice inside the freezer looking like there's an air leak, like from a bad door seal. But the door seals are good and no source of air leak can be found. Brother Durham found this tech memo that explains it and offers the cure: a redesigned evaporator fan motor. Here's the upgraded evaporator fan: http://www.repaircli...er=795.78092900 Source: LG built Kenmore frosting in freezer, not defrost issue.
 

Troubleshooting tip for Whirlpool inverter-type microwave ovens with an F7 error code

The high voltage system in microwave ovens is used to power the magnetron and generate the microwave sound energy that cooks the food. This voltage is in the range of 2,000 vdc. There are two ways of producing this high voltage. The older, conventional way is using a high voltage transformer, capacitor and rectifier. This is a pretty reliable configuration and easy to troubleshoot and repair. The other way of producing the high voltage for the magnetron is using an inverter board. These are ofter nightmares to troubleshoot and expensive to repair. In these Whirlpool inverter-type microwaves (built by Panasonic), the F7 error code indicates a problem with the inverter board. Sometimes you may see a burned spot on the inverter board confirming the error code. But absent any visual confirmation like that, Brothers JJ Surfer and Chat_in_FL offer this heads-up when troubleshooting Whirlpool inverter-type microwave ovens that throw an F7 error code. Test the magnetron by ohming between the terminals, should be very low resistance, typically less than an ohm. Then check from one of the terminals to the magentron casing. Should wide open-- if you read continuity or some resistance, then the magnetron is bad. If the magnetron checks good, you can get the replacement inverter board here: 1100 watt Inverter board: http://www.repaircli...mber=GH6177XPS5 40 watt Inverter board: http://www.repaircli...mber=GH6177XPS5 Source: Whirlpool Microwave
 

Special repair trick for fixing an LE error code in LG front-load washers (and it's NOT the hall sensor)

As most people know after a quick search of the Internet, the LE error code in LG front-load washers is usually caused by a bad hall sensor, also called a rotor position sensor or RPS. Part number: AP4440680 The hall sensor is easy to test and replace, see this post at Fixitnow.com for detailed instructions. Okay, let's say you replaced the hall sensor because you believed it was bad and you're still getting that ding-dang infernal LE error code. What's a brutha to do? First off, don't go into a blind parts changing monkey panic and start replacing parts that just never fail on their own like the stator. Take a breath, unbunch them panties, and come with me now as we step through the three most likely causes for the LE error code that persists even after replacing the hall sensor. 1. Using too much or the wrong kind of detergent Using non-HE (high efficiency) detergent in any HE washing machine (which includes ALL front loaders, regardless of brand or model) is a big Bozo No-No. You can't just use less of the non-HE stuff because washing with low water requires different detergent chemistry than washing with boocoo water. The biggest problem with using non-HE detergent is sudsing. Excessive sudsing can cause problems in HE washers by “cushioning” — or even preventing — the tumbling action. HE detergents also hold soils and dyes in suspension in low water volumes, so they don’t re-deposit onto cleaned clothes. This means that if you’re using non-HE detergents in your front-loading washer, you’re wearing poopy germs and other ca-ca on your clothes right now and you are one of the Great Unwashed. The inside of your washer will start smelling poopy, too. See my seminal tome, 9 Ways to Beat Odor Problems in Modern High-Efficiency Front Load and Top Load Washers, for more. But the biggest problem with sudsing as it pertains to the LE error code in LG front loaders is that the excessive suds can trick out the control board because the load doesn't "feel" right (yes, the control board senses the load and its action) and so it throws an LE error code. Note that using too much HE detergent can cause over-sudsing, too. Detergents are one those things where more is NOT better. You want just the right amount and no more. So what is the right amount? Well, first off, disregard the idiot directions on the box. Naturally they're going to tell you to use more so you'll have to buy more sooner. And don't fill it to the MAX line in the dispenser. Start with the following amounts of HE detergent and adjust based on your water hardness; more for hard water, less for soft water (read more about water hardness and how to check yours in this post, The Hard Facts about Hard Water and Your Appliances): - Regular HE detergent: 2 tablespoons per normal wash load - HE 2X (double concentrated): 1 tablespoon - HE 3X (triple concentrated): 1 teaspoon 2) Broken wire harness If you're sure that you (or your customer, if you're a professional appliantologist) are using the correct type and amount of detergent then replace the motor wire harness at the back of the washer (the one underneath the motor). You can see it in the photo below: Even though the wire harness may look fine, one of the wires inside may have broken over the years of use-- they's a whole lotta shakin' and gyratin' going on back there! Also, wire harnesses in dynamic environments like a front load washer can become intermittent in their conductivity. It may work in more quiescent parts of the cycle and then break continuity as the movement increases. This can break the data feedback from the hall sensor to the main control board and cause it to throw an LE error code. A visual inspection of a wire harness doesn't give a full assessment of its integrity-- you have to measure continuity of each wire in that harness to know what's really going on. Or just go ahead and replace the wire harness, it's inexpensive and easy to do. 3. The main control board may be bad Emphasis on the "may" because this is actually the least likely scenario yet the first one that most techs will jump on in these situations. Lots of times, when the main control board in an LG washer goes bad, it's visible, like in this one: It's usually the triacs, the power transistors, that get shorted out. If you see this, you better look for the problem elsewhere in the machine because something shorted and caused the triac to draw excessive current which burned it up. But control boards absolutely do fail in non-visible ways, too. So if you're still getting the LE error code after you've replaced the hall sensor, you've ruled out detergent issues and replaced the wire harness, then the only thing you're left with is the main control board.
 

How to test and replace the ADC "Jazz" circuit board in Maytag and Amana refrigerators

The "Jazz" control board is what Whirlpool (makers of Amana and Maytag appliances) calls the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) board used in some models of french door and bottom-mount Maytag and Amana refrigerators. You can identify the Jazz control board by the two, single-digit digital displays for the freezer and fresh food temperature adjustment that are located at the top of the fresh food compartment. These Jazz boards fail pretty frequently. The two most common failure modes on these boards are 1) Failure to initiate defrost and 2) Failure to stop the compressor during defrost. In both cases, the evaporator frosts up so much that air can't flow through it anymore. When I get the call, the typical complaint is that the freezer temperatures are fine but the fresh food compartment (the beer compartment) is not cold enough. Troubleshooting these Jazz boards is pretty straightforward. Put the unit into forced defrost mode and see if the defrost heating element in the freezer heats up. You can tell this in a number of ways: - feel the heating element (carefully!) if you can reach it - listen for sizzling as the frost melts off the evaporator and hits the hot element - measure current or wattage change (should increase)-- a Kill-A-Watt meter makes this quick and easy to do. The compressor should shut off during defrost. If you still hear it running, then you don't need to do any further troubleshooting because you know the Jazz board is bad and you can go ahead and replace it. If the defrost heater does not get hot in forced defrost mode, then you need to disassemble the freezer and check continuity of the defrost limiter and defrost heater. But, I gotta tell ya, in these units I replace far more Jazz boards than I do defrost limiters. And I don't think I've ever had to replace a defrost heater in one of these models. So, how do you put the Jazz control board into forced defrost mode? I thought you'd never ask! The tech sheet behind the toe grill has instructions like this: You can watch me in action as I show you how to run diagnostics on these boards, including putting it into forced defrost mode. As far as replacing the Jazz board, there are a couple techniques out there. First thing is to remove the light cover (the clear plastic part over the lights behind the control panel). It just slides back and off. That's the easy part. One way to get at the Jazz board is to remove the entire control housing, like ahso: The other method, and my preferred method, is to just unclip the Jazz board housing, letting it swing down, but leaving the rest of the control housing intact, like ahso: You can also watch me in action as I replace the Jazz Board in one of these refrigerators: The replacement Jazz board comes with an instruction sheet. Read this carefully because you have to program the Jazz board according to the program code on the model number sticker inside the beer compartment. You can buy the replacement Jazz board here with a one-year, no-hassle return policy: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/12784415/1541423 Acknowledgments: Special thanks to Brother Strathy for the beautious and informative diagram markups.
 

Troubleshooting technique for checking the MCU in a Whirlpool Duet Sport washer

If you're dealing with a Whirlpool Duet Sport front load washer (also sold under the Maytag and Kenmore brands) that just beeps when you press the start button but doesn't lock the door or run, it can be tricky to figure what the problem is. The prime suspects are: CCU (central control unit), MCU (motor control unit), and the door latch assembly. Academy Fellow Trying to help offers this tip for checking the MCU to determine whether it's the cause of the problem or not. If it checks good, you have two other suspects to test but at least you've eliminated one of them! OTOH, if the MCU tests bad, you can buy the replacement MCU here with a one year, no-hassle return policy, look up your exact board by the model number of your washer. Here's the MCU test technique illustrated: and Brother PDuff shares this old tech tip for checking the CCU: Source: maytag front load washer (whirlpool) doesnt start just beeps
 

Wire harness madness to watch out for when replacing the evaporator fan in Kitchenaid built-in refrigerators

This Public Service Announcement is brought to you today by Brother fixyourboard of Fixyourboard.com fame, providing fast, expert rebuild and repair of NLA circuit boards: Here's the link to the PDF of the evaporator fan motor installation instructions: http://appliantology.org/files/file/867-whirlpool-fridge-8201589-evaporator-fan-instructions/ Source: KSSS42FK KA Built In Evap Fan not running after board/fan replacement
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