Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

Good work around for a somewhat expensive board. Take out the part price, charge for a "control board repair" and make more money and a fcc. I'd like to see more of these component level repairs come around to our industry. They've been doing it for 100 years in tv's and radios and I believe it's going to be the next step with nla's and overpriced boards. 

I use these...

http://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/fuses-holders/fuse-holders-blocks-accessories/bussman-twin-clip-snaps-onto-existing-pigtail-fuse-and-allows-new-fuse-to-piggy-back-fit-all-1-4-inch-diameter-fuses.html

Where did you get the fuse kit?

8 hours ago, john63 said:

I use these...

http://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/fuses-holders/fuse-holders-blocks-accessories/bussman-twin-clip-snaps-onto-existing-pigtail-fuse-and-allows-new-fuse-to-piggy-back-fit-all-1-4-inch-diameter-fuses.html

Those are nice, John, and would be a "snap" repair but it looks like the flared out edges make for a larger footprint. I don't know if there would have been enough room for them in this case. Do you ever have to modify the clip holder to get it to fit?

5 hours ago, Lighthouse said:

Where did you get the fuse kit?

Assorted fuse kit: http://amzn.to/29XlWVp

Fuse holders: http://amzn.to/2abi863

21 hours ago, Samurai Appliance Repair Man said:

Those are nice, John, and would be a "snap" repair but it looks like the flared out edges make for a larger footprint. I don't know if there would have been enough room for them in this case. Do you ever have to modify the clip holder to get it to fit?

I was thinking the same think when I first looked at them, but then thought, NO the flared end goes up to protect the new fuse that is going to sit up above the board from side contact, (hopefully nothing too tall and close to fuse or it seem it might still be a problem).

Nice little connector device, Never seen or heard of that before!

Good observation, Willie, thanks. 

On July 20, 2016 at 11:37 PM, AlboGator said:

Good work around for a somewhat expensive board. Take out the part price, charge for a "control board repair" and make more money and a fcc. I'd like to see more of these component level repairs come around to our industry. They've been doing it for 100 years in tv's and radios and I believe it's going to be the next step with nla's and overpriced boards. 

Fuses and visibly leaking capacitors are two easy things to replace-- they're easy in the sense that it's easy to determine that they're bad. But, unlike TV and radio, the resolution (level of detail) of repairs we can do beyond these two easy ones quickly drops off because we're usually not given detailed schematics of the circuit board. In addition to the schematic, troubleshooting electronic circuits usually also requires a signal generator and oscilloscope. And the repair is usually done at a soldering station. For example, it would be practically impossible to troubleshoot a DC logic circuit to identify and IC chip with a defective binary NAND gate without those information and equipment. 

But even if we get the low hanging fruit, like fuses and leaky caps, that's still a significant percentage of possible repairs. It's fun and saves the customer a wad of cash = loyal customers and good reviews. 

Quote

But even if we get the low hanging fruit, like fuses and leaky caps, that's still a significant percentage of possible repairs. It's fun and saves the customer a wad of cash = loyal customers and good reviews. 

Egg zactly. Don't forget relays. I agree that it's fun and looks impressive even if it's just the basic components. Communication circuits are a whole different story though.

8 minutes ago, AlboGator said:

Don't forget relays

Yes, relays! Easy to diagnose and replace. 

On 7/21/2016 at 9:51 AM, Samurai Appliance Repair Man said:

Those are nice, John, and would be a "snap" repair but it looks like the flared out edges make for a larger footprint. I don't know if there would have been enough room for them in this case. Do you ever have to modify the clip holder to get it to fit?

Yes Scott---can be folded/cut with scissors or removed.

That's awesome! Thanks so much for sharing that, John! Makes this repair even easier.

nice John I am picking up some of those piggy back fuse clips myself for onsite repairs.  I have run into whirlpool dryer control boards that have had some solder joints that came apart in several different model #'s of their dryers. Seems to be a common thing with certain whirlpool dryer boards. I just re solder  then plug and play and the customer is ecststic and happy it costs less than replacing and waiting for a new control board.  Once you can perfect your FCC you never go back..  They actually only sell  the buss fuse holders without  the insulated board that seperates the two fuses.  The picture of the fuse holder you see is not the one that they sell. They sell just 2 separate pieces for each fuse end connection that will just clip on each end of the existing fuse and then you just pop in a new fuse over the top of the bad existing fuse that is permanently soldered in.

Oh hell yes. I think I love all you guys!

Quick

On 7/21/2016 at 12:36 AM, john63 said:

I use these...

http://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/fuses-holders/fuse-holders-blocks-accessories/bussman-twin-clip-snaps-onto-existing-pigtail-fuse-and-allows-new-fuse-to-piggy-back-fit-all-1-4-inch-diameter-fuses.html

Tried to find these but was able to get the link to show them. Do you have another supplier for them or a link to these fuses?

Have a part number?

Edited April 24, 2019 by Lighthouse

I just came across this as well and would like to get some of these as well. Any updates on where to get them?

Try these.

BUSS Twin Clips part #4121

has anyone come across boards where both fuses are open and was able to replace both without a problem ?

i've got a dead board (EBR41531303) with both the 15A and the 2A fuse open - both circuits measure like a good board with their resistance and capacitance measurement quirks pretty much identical...

the thing is i've never heard of anyone replacing the 2A fuse it seems like everything i can find refers to the 15A fuse...

thx/w