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GE Monogram ZISS420nmcs, side by side cabinet depth unit. condenser is in the "ceiling" of the freezer compartment. Water is leaking, and freezing, from the ceiling of the freezer. Started making a terrible noise (fan was hitting the ice). I have removed all screws but cannot seem to remove the ceiling panel. There is a small opening, I can reach in and feel ice above the ceiling. I suppose I can fix the symptom by letting all of the ice melt and simply turning off the water to the ice maker. Any better suggestions? TIA !!

Fridge-freezer unit, SN 804KR00272. First issue was freezer melt-down. Didn't have time to deal with it, my appliance tech replaced the linear compressor. The compressor cooled fridge to 37F, shut off, started again at about 43F and cooled to 36.7 and never restarted again. The compressor only ran two cycles over a weekend. When we came back, I turned off power for a bit, plugged it in and compressor started. Again ran just 3 cycles and no more. Notably, the compressor makes more noise than it used to (before replacement). Our appliance tech came back and replaced the motherboard, after some other tests. I wasn't here, unfortunately, so don't know any details what he tested or otherwise changed. Since I have a GoVee WiFi thermostat and hygrometer in the fridge section, I get very detailed readings from that (great little thing btw). So after the new motherboard initial power-up, I see temperature drop to about 37F, the compressor subsequently ran 8 normal cycles maintaining the fridge within 35.6F and 41F range (see pic). Great - except after that it stopped and temperature steadily increased to room temperature and stayed there. Nobody in the house, doors closed and no other interference. When I got back, I turned power off/on, fridge compressor kicked in, quickly cooled the fridge in about 1.5 hrs from 78F to 45F (fridge is set to 37F), now the temp has climbed to 52F and compressor has not started again. Suggestions for troubleshooting steps? Process of elimination?

Hi everyone, I bought an old chest freezer that I want to adjust to use as a fridge. I am aware that freezer thermostats generally have a screw that can be adjusted to change the temperature range, and that many also have a "differential screw" (there may be other terms for it but I don't know them), which increases or decreases the difference between the cut-in and cut-out temperatures. I have a Frigidaire 5304513033 thermostat, and I can see two screws on it, but I don't know which is one and I'm having a hard time figuring it out through trial and error. Does anyone know where I can learn more about this part? Any advice or suggestions would be a BIG help to me. Thanks! Thermostat: <Thttps://www.frigidaireapplianceparts.com/PartDetail/Temperature-Control-Thermostat/5304513033/4546111>

I have ice building up in the bottom of the freezer compartment on my Samsung RF4287HARS French Door Refrigerator, below the pull out drawer. It will build up to about 3/4"-1" thick and then impedes the closing of the door. Every 4-6 weeks, I need to remove the freezer drawer, melt and chop the ice and put everything back in. I have been doing this for three years on a 5 year old fridge. Samsung Customer Service is ABSOLUTELY NO HELP. What causes this? And can I fix it myself?

So I bought this fancy Panasonic Fridge Freezer 6 years ago, it had an inverter compressor and the company was new to the market... the device itself was merely OK (it chilled alright, but the water dispenser was slow and somehow warmer than it came out of my normal tap! and the freezer food got crystals on it regularly) but slowly other owners posted tales of woe online with devices failing, poor support and eventually Panasonic exited the market. On Friday night though, the device just died - it acted as if it had been unplugged. To be fair to Panasonic, the service manual online is great and very comprehensive - https://www.manualslib.com/manual/871900/Panasonic-Nr-B53v1.html (v1 and v2 models virtually identical) and there's even a wiring diagram on the back of the machine. It says to check: Voltage of the supply Power Cord Motor Protector or Reactor Control PCB Now, the power and cord is fine, and power is going from the Control PCB to the Reactor OK at 240v. The Motor Protector has continuity. I've luckily found someone selling the $500 PCB for $50 online, it should arrive next week. I'm a little concerned that the online reviews mention Panasonic technicians not being able to diagnose similar faults and basically dumping the machine which suggests the 4 recommended steps might not be enough. The PCB doesn't have anything obviously wrong with it, and seems a bit strange to die after this time when the caps seem ok and it's outputting voltage to the reactor. I wondered if anyone had any thoughts on How to test the reactor Any PCB tests that can be done to build confidence that its replacement will fix the issue Any other diagnosis that can be done Thanks

Frigidaire Upright Freezer Modal #FFU21C4CW1 I plugged it in and it's working fine it gets cold like normal, but in a couple days it's like you just unplugged it. I have been trying to do some research and but haven't found anything definitive. Does anyone know what might be the problem. Does it sound like the Run Capacitor or Thermostat or neither?

Hey everyone, I have an. OLD Eaton Viking chest freezer. I have been using it as a beer fermenting chamber so it's hacked up with extra connectors, etc., for my sensors and a PID controller to turn it on and off. The freezer has stopped getting cold.. As in, it was on ALL day today and barely dropped 1c below the temp in the room. - I have bypassed all my hacks and it's plugged straight into the wall. Thermostat set to coldest. - The compressor starts, hums, and I can hear gurgling I'm not sure what to check. There is no damage to the wiring, the motor turns on, and I can hear the flow.. so any advice would be very much appreciated. Given how old it is, I'm guessing I can't top up the refrigerant if that has leaked.. :( I've put a lot of TLC into this thing, I'd hate to chuck it. THANKS!!

Viking model DFFB304L standalone 15.9 cuft freezer. Issue: Freezer trips the Thermistor alarm but also continues to run constantly. Thermistor seems to work correctly. Usually immediately upon plugging in, freezer beeps 5 times and the temp scale flashes left-to-right indicating thermistor alarm. If I clear the alarm, it usually trips almost immediately again. Sometimes it will not trip for a few minutes to few hours, but this is less common. Service Manual indicates that thermistor alarm is triggered by an OPEN circuit at thermistor, which also should cause the compressor and fan to shut off. However it continues to run constantly with alarm tripped. Pulled thermistor while power on to simulate OPEN circuit, and it shuts off compressor/fan immediately. Tested thermistor resistance at different temperatures and compared to book values and it is very close at all temps ranges. Tested both with thermistor removed from freezer and while installed using digital multimeter. Entered the diagnostic mode and display shows what it reads the thermistor temperature. Using the binary code from service manual, confirmed that it is very close to the actual temp (tested with IR gun), so seems that the computer is reading the thermistor, and reading it accurately. Also as I keep door open, the value changes so it seems to be reading constantly and updating. However alarm is still triggered during before, during, after this diagnostic test. Question: Service Manual indicated the only reason for thermistor alarm is if it detects OPEN circuit, but freezer runs constantly, and testing with multimeter and diagnostic mode seem to indicate the thermistor is operating correctly and that the computer is reading the value correctly and consistently. Is there any other failure mode that someone is aware of that would trip the thermistor alarm? Furthermore, any ideas what the issue could be, and how I could diagnose? If it is a problem with one of the PCBs, I have the wiring and PCB diagrams, what should I test to look for an error on the computer?

Amana Model # ASD2522WRS01 Ice Maker leaking into bucket Makes and dispenses ice--cubed and crushed--just fine Leaks less but some when turned off by lifting internal "full" shutoff arm Leaks more when turned on (almost enough to freeze around the spinning cube "feed" rotor down the center bottom of the bucket) Water dispenser quit working over a year ago; replaced filter and it worked intermittently, then quit again; don't care about that but mentioning in case it's related; freezer made ice well without leak for at least a year since water dispenser quit Troubleshooting so far: Water pressure good; condenser coils clean Tested Water Valves lower back of unit: Green Valve: 250 ohms Red Valve: 200 ohms (not digital so approx.) Raised freezer setting slowly after a good thaw and clean (was sub-zero) to where it fluctuates between approx. 0 and +10 F. That was 2 weeks ago. Icemaker may be leaking at its own shutoff valve (inside black housing below the timer wheel--just behind the labelled cover) Don't mind paying $80+ for a new unit but don't want to waste that if it's the valves or something else. Can someone confirm: Next step swapping out the ice maker unit with a new one?

Traulsen G Series Freezer Service Manual View File G12000 Model Series G22000 Model Series G31300 Model Series PUB F25393 August 2010 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 08/09/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Manufacturer: Frigidaire Type of Appliance: Freezer-Upright Model Number: 253.21742510 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes Looking for a service manual or tech sheet for kenmore upright freezer 253.21742510

Frigidaire FPUH19D7LF1 Freezer Tech Sheet View File Tech sheet PUB 297367200 Submitter Lighthouse Submitted 05/09/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Kenmore Frigidaire 253.22402100 Freezer Tech Sheet View File PUB 216867100 Submitter Son of Samurai Submitted 05/02/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

GE FUF14DVDRWW Freezer Mini Manual View File PUB 31-51759 Submitter Lighthouse Submitted 04/25/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Electrolux EI32AF65JS1 Freezer Service Manual View File PUB 5995568028 Submitter Son of Samurai Submitted 03/01/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Manufacturer: Electrolux Type of Appliance: Freezer Model Number: LFUH21F7LMO Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Requesting service manual/tech sheet please.

Hi: Whirlpool Refrigerator Dual Evaporator WRF989SDAM00 I have been trying to get this working properly for a while now. Initially I determined a leak, found the leak on the RC evaporator and repaired it. Held 100 PSI nitrogen for a couple days, vacuum, and recharged with R134a 5.5 oz. Now it does this: On warm startup the refrigerator section cools down as it is supposed to as I understand. This unit cools one evaporator at a time. So the RC goes down to around 36.3F or so on my K-type thermometer at the RC fan output. That seems normal enough because the front panel setting is 37F. So then it goes to cool the freezer section. I see the freezer temp coming down on my second Ktype thermometer lead at the FC evaporator outlet, but does not ever get the freezer section cold enough. Front panel setting is 0F for the freezer. It goes down alright into the 40F and under area. But not lower. My suction pressure was a little too high seems to me. Would not go below 18 to 20 PSIG. I removed some refrigerant gas so it is drawing down to 6 to 10 PSIG now. But that is not the solution. It seems to me the compressor is just not drawing down enough to reduce the suction pressure to near 0 PSIG where it needs to be. So here's my question for now. What is the DC voltage into the compressor start inverter supposed to be doing during all this? The 120VAC into the compressor start inverter is solid. The 3-6 VDC into the inverter just stays at 3.4xx all the time, no matter what. Shouldn't this be varying to increase the compressor speed and therefore draw the suction pressure lower? What am I thinking wrong or missing here? I got this for nothing and as a project but would really like to troubleshoot it correctly. Thanks for any ideas/experience.