Bad gas valve? LGR7620LW0

[Ajthefixer]

Hello,Gurus.

I bought this dryer used and thought it would be an easy fix, thermal cutoff fuse tested bad so I replaced it. I then got the dryer to run and ignitor to light for a few seconds, but no gas. So I replaced the Two solenoids ( whirlpool sealed factory replacements) Same deal...no gas .

Instead of a click when I turn the dryer on and heat is called for, I get a buzzing sound.

The ignitor and switch both test out ok. 

What gives? I want to be sure it's the gas valve before I scrap this thing. I've never seen one go bad, but I think I've eliminated every other option. This particular dryer requires the whole valve assembly with pipe attached. I'm Not dropping the 200$ if that's it. 

Hopefully I missed something else....

[AccApp]

I’ll bet the rubber part of the valve is stuck to the valve housing. You can take these apart, you just need a tamper-proof torx bit.

[AccApp]

It happens especially if the dryer sits a long time without being used.

[Ajthefixer]

Thanks! can you give me a bit more detail on this?

What am I taking apart and what am I looking for?

[Ajthefixer]

So...I found the proper bit and took the cover off the valve. I don't see anything in there I can fix. The gasket/diaphragm seems to be fine. Hopefully I put the springs back correctly that popped out when I uncovered the valve.

So...still trying to decide if this is scrap or not. Did I mention there is a very perceptible rattling buzzing sound coming from the valve when gas is called for?  

The Ol' Lady is going to insist on s New dryer any second now.

Help.

[AccApp]

Remove the coils, then take off the top cover of the valve. You will then see the rubber bits that do the actual releasing of the gas. Check that they can lift off the (aluminum? Die cast?) body.

[AccApp]

Be the fuel.....how do you pass through the valve?

[Ajthefixer]

Ahh.... So the little rubber grommet things on the bottom of the post with the springs on them are supposed to be loose? Let me pull it back apart.

[AccApp]

Eggs-Zachary! Pull them off if they are stuck

[AccApp]

As powerful as the solenoid is, it cannot pull them loose when they get stuck

[Ajthefixer]

Okay... definitely onto something! One was stuck exactly like you said,the other wasn't.

When I ran the dryer this time so weird vibration from the valve just the normal clicks. But....no flame. I let the ignitor cycle through 3 times. Nothing.

WTF!?

[Ajthefixer]

I meant no* vibration. Not sure how to edit a post.

[Ajthefixer]

Shot in the dark here,but is it possible I have an LP orifice in there instead of a gas one? How do I tell which one is which?

[AccApp]

Even with an lp orefice it should pass enough gas to ignite. There should be a little number stamped on the brass bit.

[AccApp]

Loads of air in pipe, may have to cycle many more times to purge

[Ajthefixer]

Ok...so what now? Definitely no gas ignition.

[Ajthefixer]

There is only a 4' run from the shut-off I'll try again.

[AccApp]

You can also remove the pipe plug to confirm presence of fuel

[Ajthefixer]

There's definitely fuel. I'm definitely not getting a flame. Plug wasn't blocked.

I feel like I'm so close. But, nada.

 

[AccApp]

Not checking plug if blocked, see if gas comes out.

[AccApp]

Did the stuck rubber bit come off easily?

[Ajthefixer]

One was already free, the other I had to wiggle off with a screwdriver.it appeared undamaged. I removed the burner assembly and uncrewed the black iron pipe to check for blockages. It's clear. Nothing significant on the filter screen.

I got nothing. 

[AccApp]

Put it back together and remove the little pipe plug. Does gas come out when you hear the click?

[Ajthefixer]

The screen at the end of the black iron pipe elbow?

 

[AccApp]

On the opposite side of the gas valve from the orefice is a little pipe plug. Remove it to see if gas is being released when it should.