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My Goodman furnace (GMP 100-5) usually give me some issues every year and I managed to learn/fix them during the past years. This time, I thought I've narrowed this No-Flame issue down to a bad gas valve issue: I got 24V on a multimeter after the Inducer was running, and the Ignitor was red-hot. (the operation sequence) -- I concluded the gas valve was bad So, I ordered a White-Rodgers 36G22-254 gas valve and replaced it. no flame. I guess I got a defective one. ordered another one from a different seller... but still no flame... Any Idea? (yes, I have made sure there is gas flowing into the gas value: disconnect the gas valve and turn on and off the gas shut valve quickly. there's gas coming out with "pshhhhh" sound ) (some more details -- actually, this is my 2nd White-Rodgers: I changed the existing Goodman gas valve 2 years back and fixed the issue. And this time, I also did some more researches before ordering the new White-Rodgers gas value -- I disconnect the wires going to the gas valve, and measured the voltage on the wires. Yes, it had the 24V AC reading after the Ignitor was red-hot. Also, I measured the resistance of "the gas valve coil" - I guess it should have ohms, but I got a open circuit reading on both new White-Rodgers valves... it looks like some new-type gas valve wouldn't get 300~2000 ohms How to test the gas valve on a gas furnace with an ohmmeter)

Rheem 80PJ Furnace Parts List View File PUB 92-42805-80PJ Submitter Son of Samurai Submitted 11/20/2017 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Rheem 80PJ07EBR01 Furnace Installation Instructions and Technical Specs View File Installation instructions PUB 92-24161-31-07 Technical specs PUB G66-478 Rev 1 Submitter Son of Samurai Submitted 11/20/2017 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Hi all! I need some help troubleshooting my furnace/thermostat. My furnace and thermostat were working without issues yesterday (10/20). I woke up this morning (10/21) to all my vents blowing cold air (no heat) and a thermostat with no power (as exhibited by the digital thermostat with a screen off). My home also has a humidifying system connected to the HVAC system and its display was also off. I determined that both the thermostat and humidifier were both not receiving power from the furnace. While inspecting the furnace, I found there to be power coming in to the transformer, being transformed, but *no power to the furnace terminals*. I was able to *find and reset a thermal limiter*, and after doing this – I began to receive power at the furnace terminals again! At this time – my humidifier display began receiving power again. *The problem I am still having is that there does not seem to be enough power being sent from the furnace and up to the thermostat that was running without problems no more than 36 hours ago*. I am getting an electrical reading of at the correct AC voltage of 26v at the furnace terminals (basement), but when I read up at the thermostat (ground floor), all but one of my readings are at 14.5v. I have attached a picture of the thermostat wires as well as the wires at the furnace. I did not touch any of the wiring at the thermostat, but I did interact with the wires at the furnace while performing my troubleshooting. All of the wiring is as the units were installed since I moved in to the house. I moved in about 2 months ago and I have had no issues with the HVAC system until over last night. In the pictures, you’ll notice than an “add a wire” was installed. There are a lot of wires because a humidifier is also installed. You might also notice the loose brown wire at the bottom of the furnace configuration photo. This was labeled as “Green Thermostat” despite it being a brown coated white wire. I was able to trace this wire back to the humidifier, though. *Any suggestions for troubleshooting would be much appreciated!* Thanks for your help! A couple of other notes that might be helpful… HVAC Model: Carrier 58GS-100-161GA Circuit Board Part #: HH84AA020 Thermostat connections: White Wire connected to W1 (Reads at 26v when connected to R) Yellow Wire connected to Y1 (Reads at 14.5v when connected to R) Green Wire connected to G (Reads at 14.5v when connected to R) Red Wire connected to R (Reads at 14.5v when connected to R) Green Wire connected to C (Reads at 14.5v when connected to R)

I live in California in an area that doesn't really need A/C so all I have is a gas furnace for heat (York Diamond 80). Heat worked fine last winter and never used the unit at all from about June to October and then when I tried turning it on in October got nothing. Checked it and the 3 amp fuse in the control board area was blown. I replaced that but got nothing so I turned an "on/off" switch in the unit to off and back on and still nothing, then jumped the heat and power and it turned on. Removed the "jump" and thermostat operated it fine. Not sure but my guess is something had to "reset" for it to work. So it worked fine for about two months than last night we had a rain storm and had one or two instances of the lights dimming for a split second. Woke up in the morning and no heat and not really sure when it went out. Anyway same 3 amp fuse blown so I repeat the process and its working fine again. But I guess the point is if that fuse blew twice now is there another issue or is it just a power surge? Should I put in a power strip to plug into instead of directly from outlet to furnace? Should I wait to see if it happens again? Should I change it to a 5 amp?

Goodman manufacturing GMPN080-4 furnace. Ok, so one visit to my son's house yesterday for a hot water heater issue (unrelated) leads to yet another "new home owner" physical plant debacle. He moved into the house a few months ago. While I was out there, we looked for the furnace air filter. Not seeing anything resembling a filter door/drawer/slide. we took to looking inside the actual cabinet. Taking off the main side of the cabinet revealed a 16 x 21 x 1 filter just "resting" loosely against the side of the cabinet where the return air comes in. Yes, it IS between the return and the blower, but it just sort of flaps in the breeze. When the blower starts, it pulls the filter away from the return side of the cabinet an inch or two, and I believe most of the return air just circulates around the outside of the filter. There are no tracks, slides, doors or drawer. It just sits against the side of the cabinet (on the inside), between the blower and the inside of the cabinet. There is one small piece of what looks like coat hanger wire attached at the top of one corner holding it in place. But for the most part it just flaps. It is behind all the wires and safety interlock switch. It does not look like the filter will come out easily. In fact, from the look of the filter, it looks like someone bent the filter in half, to get it in place, and then unfolded it. It looks pretty "jerry rigged" to me. We have looked all over the return ducting for a filter and it appears that this is the only one. So my questions are: 1. Is this a typical means of filtering the return air? I don't have a much experience with hot air systems, but I am very familiar with hydronic. This just doesn't seem right to me. 2. It looks to me like I need to have an HVAC/sheet metal person come in and somehow install a "door/drawer/slide" into the return duct so we get some reasonable filtering taking place. I've never done any HVAC duct work before except for wood stove chimneys, kitchen/bathroom exhaust fans and dryer vents. . Is this something I can do myself, or who should i call? HVAC guy or sheet metal guy? Thanks for your time. Paul/NH

File Name: Carrier 48XL Packaged Air Conditioner and Gas Furnace System Service Manual File Submitter: alamo1718 File Submitted: 24 Jan 2015 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Infinity controlled HVAC units Infinity 15 Packaged Air Conditioner and Gas Furnace System With Puron® (R-410A) Refrigerant 2 to 5 Nominal Tons (Sizes 024-060) Click here to download this file

I have an older Amana GUC gas/forced-air furnace that has an AP5522K relay. Would anybody know the difference of a AP5222K relay that seems to be much more available?

I have an old Janitrol furnace, time for a new one, but... Goodman Mfg. GUPI075-3 There was a similar post, but didn't seem to finish discussion.. The Inducive Draft Motor comes on; the pilot lights, but the system will not ignite on its own. If I provide a small amount of airflow toward the burners, gas is immediately introduced and the system works normally. My suspicion is that the draft motor is turning too slow to provide proper airflow or there is a "flow sensor" i have been unable to locate. What component senses airflow to turn on the main gas supply? Thank you for any help!

File Name: Carrier Furnace Operating / Installation Manual File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 03 Nov 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Carrier Furnace Operating / Installation Manual Weather-Maker WeatherMaker Infinity 9200 58MCA 58MVP 58MXA om58-67.pdf Click here to download this file

Posted 27 July 2012 - 04:47 PM Weil Mclain WTGO-4 has been firing ok. It is used, at this time of year, solely for heating the domestic water in the internal tankless heater. The unit is a home heating oil fired one. Unit has a 1.25 gph 80* B Delavan nozzle. Top flue goes into a masonry chimney.The other day I noticed dark smoke from the chimney and immediately shut down the unit. Thinking soot build up, I proceeded to thoroughly clean the heat exchanger grids, box, etc. They were sooty (dry) but nothing really bad. The blower motor, air inlets, etc., were dust covered (unit is in laundry room and I have 2 teenage boys) so I dis-assembled nearly everything (pump, blower cage, couplings, housing, etc., etc. Cleaned lines, new filter, wiped everything clean and when I plugged it in (it's on a connection harness, not hard wired as of now), it popped the GFI that is on that circuit. It has however, been on a plug in since the Sandy debacle and has run without a problem.Re-set and it popped again. Plugged it directly into another GFI unit and the positive leg welded itself to the GFI contact until I yanked them apart. Really, the pos leg is now 1/8 " shorter. I'm thinking DEAD SHORT. (But where?) Beckett burner - RWB model Suntec strainer HONEYWELL ignition Unit does not have the auto purge feature of the newer ones. This one is 5+1/2 years oldI disconnected he Beckett from the wiring and tested it and it tests fine.I tested the wiring harness that I use and it tested fine.I tested the GFI and it tests fine I tested the circuit that I use and it tests fine. Nothing lights up or does anything because the GFI immediately trips.Lastly, but most important. After removing the motor leads for the Beckett, I can't recall (with absolute certainty) to what other leads they were connected. I've included a picture and would appreciate the correct wiring designations. This one was my fault and stupid! It appears as though the WHITE motor lead needs to be connected to the WHITE ignition lead.It appears as though the BLACK motor lead needs to be connected to the ORANGE/BLACK (ignition/transformer connection. I did find, underneath the service cut-off cover, a loose white wire (see picture) that appeared to be tack welded to the metal box. It looked factory ( a ground) but, could it be a loose wire that welded itself to the box and is a/the problem? It is now loose, but I will re-attach or cap it as necessary. See pictures # 4 and # 5. Should this be attached again?So, there you have it. I repaired a mechanical issue, and now have an electric/electronic problem.As these were the only 2 wires that I disconnected this should resolve this issue, but i thought that they both had 3-wire connections. My memory must not be working (shorted out?) I have included a picture of the Honeywell Aquastat #6. I have include a picture of the disconnect with the wire attached #5I have include a picture of the disconnect with the wire unattached #4I have included 3 pictures of the wire hook up for the motor ( for clarity) #s 1, 2, & 3 Below is the Photobucket link. Help pleaseMr. Lee Fix http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/Minolta101/library/Furnace?sort=3&page=1

File Name: Tempstar Furnace 80+ Installation Manual File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 22 May 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Tempstar Furnace 80+ Installation & Wiring Diagrams FBF050B12G1 FBF075B12G1 FBF075F16G1 FBF100F14G1 FBF100F20G1 FBF100J22G1 FBF125J20G1 FBF125J22G1 GDE050B12G1 GDE075B12G1 GDE075F16G1 GDE100F14G1 GDE100F20G1 GDE125J20G1 GNE050B12G1 GNE075B12G1 GNE075F16G1 GNE100F14G1 GNE100F20G1 GNE100J20G1 GNE125J20G1 GNE150J20G1 NBF050B12G1 NBF075B12G1 NBF075F16G1 NBF100F20G1 NBF100J20G1 NBF100J22G1 NBF125J20G1 NBF125J22G1 NDF050B12G1 NDF075B12G1 NDF075F16G1 NDF100F14G1 NDF100F20G1 NDF125J20G1 NDN3050FBG1 NDN3075FBG1 NDN3075HFG1 NDN3100GFG1 NDN3100KFG1 NDN3125KJG1 NDN6050FBG1 NDN6075FBG1 NDN6075HFG1 NDN6100GFG1 NDN6100KFG1 NDN6125KJG1 NNE050B12G1 NNE075B12G1 NNE075F16G1 NNE100F20G1 NNE100J20G1 NNE125J20G1 NTC6050FBG1 NTC6075FBG1 NTC6075HFG1 NTC6100GFG1 NTC6100KFG1 NTC6100KJG1 NTC6125KJG1 NTC6150KJG1 NTG3050FBG1 NTG3075FBG1 NTG3075HFG1 NTG3100GFG1 NTG3100KFG1 NTG3100LJG1 NTG3125KJG1 NTG3125LJG1 NTN3050FBG1 NTN3075FBG1 NTN3075HFG1 NTN3100KFG1 NTN3100KJG1 NTN3100LJG1 NTN3125KJG1 NTN3125LJG1 NTN6050FBG1 NTN6075FBG1 NTN6075HFG1 NTN6100KFG1 NTN6100KJG1 NTN6125KJG1 Click here to download this file

Hi all, been awhile since I've been on here but I've got one for the experts on "furnace-tology". Strong, gusty 45mph winds typical for Fall here have been messing with my induced draft blower vacuum signal to the pressure switch, especially the cyclonic nature of said winds this year. Shuts the furnace down prematurely when alternating positive/negative pressure waves in the flue mess with the blower vacuum signal from gusts blasting across the furnace exhaust flue outlet above the roofline. Flue terminates approximately 22 feet above the ground, through the garage roof, along the split level exterior wall, through the adjacent eave of the attached main house terminating about 3 feet above the roofline. PVC 2.5 inch diameter. Result: the pressure switch diaphram plunger taps the microswitch toggle just slightly enough to open the circuit making the furnace controller think the draft blower has failed--result, premature flame shutdown and begin another inefficient heating cycle. The flue top has a convex rain cap of course. Draft blower is new last winter. Pressure switch vacuum tests prove ok for possible torn diaphram. Pressure microswitch continuity tests check ok at microswitch. I relocated the pressure switch closer to the draft blower with a much shorter hose a week ago when the wind was blowing thinking that would help with a stronger vacuum signal but particularly bad winds this weekend proved that futile. Tonight it’s calm here for the first time in 4 days and the furnace is completing heating cycles normally. I’m now wondering what I can do to keep gusts from creating pressure waves down the flue or wind-capping the flue. Does anybody know of a flue-cap product for just such a condition? Is there a flue cap made specifically for wind problems like this?

File Name: Lennox 80MGF Mid-Efficient Gas Furnace File Submitter: kdog File Submitted: 08 Mar 2012 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Service Manual for Lennox Mid Efficient Gas Furnace Models: 80MGF2-45 80MGF2-60 80MGF3-60 80MGF2-75 80MGF3-75 80MGF4-75 80MGF3/4-100 80MGF4/5-100 80MGF3/4-120 80MGF4/5-120 80MGF4/5-140 Click here to download this file

Hi, I have an older Bryant 75000 BTU Natural Gas furnace built in 1986 with a HH84AA 011 board. The thing started acting up where after the furnace would cycle the blower would come on briefly for a couple of seconds then turn off about 3 times within about 10 seconds. This had gone on for about a month. Now the blower will not turn off at all. We have to turn the power off to the furnace to get it to shut down. When it gets cold in the house we flip the switch and after the flame goes out and HX cools we flip the switch again. I’ve searched the forum and found a few instances where the blower stays on for this type of system. Here is what I’ve learned and done so far… I was looking for a bad Transformer which is working and putting out 24V. Checked for power between SEC 1 and SEC2 and get 24v. Checked the voltage between R and C and I get 24 volts as well so the board seems good. I cleaned the contacts on the relay and getting a spark when switched on. Checked the upper limit and it seems to be working fine along with the fuse on it is OK too. I disconnected the T-stat wires and tested everything again and everything seems fine. BUT the blower still will not turn off! I started tracing looking for any bare, worn or broken wires or loose connections and everything seems fine as well. I thought I'd have this fixed by now with the info I found on this site (you guys give great info) But this thing is driving me nuts! ANY HELP would be appreciated! Thanks! Jim J

My furnace worked last week, but this week it no longer fires up. When I set the thermostat to call for heat, the inducer fan starts but the pilot never sparks. The inducer runs for a few minutes and then shuts down. I would like to figure this out since I have some time but have not made in progress over last couple days searching the internet. Thanks. Norm