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Hi, My dishwasher will fill water (and will intermittently drain some water too), but the circulation pump/sprayer does not start. In between I can hear a faint electronic hum, as well as the odd relay clicking. After an extended period of time it will give the 5 beeps (as if the wash cycle was completed). However when it does the 5 beeps, the water isn't emptied and is full up to the base of the door in the tub. I also noticed that the heater was on (if that's of any relevance). I've tried to turn off, wait 10 minutes and turn back on the dishwasher from the main breaker, but there was no difference. Also, I read about a "reset" sequence (i.e. hold down the power scrub + rinse & hold buttons for 10+ seconds). When I tried this, the "clean" light turned on, but nothing happens when I close the door. I believe it's supposed to force the tub to drain. Note the drain pump seems to be functioning, as I hear it sometimes turn on and drain excess water. Also, I inspected the check-valve, and it seemed to be working okay. My guess is that either the control board is bad, or the circulation pump is faulty? Please advise.

We've been selling our custom oven keypad replacement solution online for about nine months now and have run into this problem many times: The customer doesn't feel confident enough to install the part themselves. We have created pretty thorough installation manuals complete with detailed, high res photography to instruct them in what we already believe is a fairly simple operation. Nevertheless, appliance control parts appear to be intimidating to the average homeowner. Our product - The LinkBox: a small electronic module (typically half the size of an OEM control board) that installs on the backside of an oven touchpad next to the OEM control board. The module has a mounting bracket on it that mates with the mounting bracket for the OEM control board. It comes with a ribbon cable and two leads for L1 and N. The ribbon cable connects to the OEM control board in place of the OEM panel's ribbon cable. The L1 and N leads terminate in piggy-back terminals (or a special adapter depending on which model appliance the customer has) and are to be connected in parallel with incoming power to the OEM control board. It ships with a 7" tablet that will automatically boot into the user interface and establish a Bluetooth connection with the LinkBox when powered on. And that's it. When the customer wants to have this installed by a tech, we will refer them to you, and you can charge them a typical install fee or whatever you want! But it sounds like you get $50-$100 and a happy customer for about 10 minutes of work. At this moment, we are looking for techs in the following areas: Las Vegas, NV Maxton, NC Please let us know if you can help! -BoardFruit, Inc.

No lights or response on touch pad of KDFE104DBL2. I checked the AC power connection to the unit - good. I took the front panel of the unit apart expecting to find a thermal fuse, but I didn't see one. Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.

I have a Frigidaire wall oven and had to replace the relay in the back, which was covered by my homebuyer's warranty. A friend came over and pulled it out of the wall because the repairmen couldn't Unfortunately he removed the wires behind the control panel and didn't copy down which colors go where. The colors don't match the wiring schematics diagram Frigidaire sent me so I don't know how to rewire it without risking permanent damage when I turn on the oven. The repairman wasn't sure and his job was only to replace the relay, so I am stuck. I am looking for somebody who might have a similar model and could send me a photo. I've looked all over the internet and can't find anything. I can send you my email address if you have a photo. Thanks!

Ok, I come forth again to humbly ask help on battling this foe again. Around 4 years ago this refrigerator had the evaporator fan failure, someone here helped me diagnose it and I was able to get a fan and replace it rather than waiting the -5- weeks the service company said it would take to get the part and get their tech back out to install. starting about a year ago, according to the teenagers and my partner the control panel would stop responding for random amounts of time. The lengths got longer and longer until a few months ago when it stopped responding completely. The fridge and freeze were well within temp ranges so they didn't worry about it, then in the last month they told me that the temps have started to creep up. I did some research online and came up with 3 possibilities,. Control panel control board, HV board and the control panel itself. I tried swapping control panel board first, but no Bueno... Then the HV board the next time I was up ( I'm out on the coast and only get the chance to work on things when I am up here 5 hrs away, for appointments. I swapped the old HV board back in as I was unable to get into programming mode to program the new HV board. at this point it looks like the actual control panel is bad, but I am no longer certain, is there any troubleshooting steps I can be pointed at (voltages to check, etc...)??? im ending up working on it again as she called a couple service companies in the area and both wanted a couple hundred just to come look at the dang thing, and she couldn't scrape up that much at once.

I tried to start a load and the lid wouldn't lock, I just kept hearing a clicking noise coming from the back. I stripped the washer and started a load with the control panel exposed. Still can't figure this out... :/ https://youtu.be/2wRW-cE-yj4