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Found 36 results

  1. We've been selling our custom oven keypad replacement solution online for about nine months now and have run into this problem many times: The customer doesn't feel confident enough to install the part themselves. We have created pretty thorough installation manuals complete with detailed, high res photography to instruct them in what we already believe is a fairly simple operation. Nevertheless, appliance control parts appear to be intimidating to the average homeowner. Our product - The LinkBox: a small electronic module (typically half the size of an OEM control board) that installs on the backside of an oven touchpad next to the OEM control board. The module has a mounting bracket on it that mates with the mounting bracket for the OEM control board. It comes with a ribbon cable and two leads for L1 and N. The ribbon cable connects to the OEM control board in place of the OEM panel's ribbon cable. The L1 and N leads terminate in piggy-back terminals (or a special adapter depending on which model appliance the customer has) and are to be connected in parallel with incoming power to the OEM control board. It ships with a 7" tablet that will automatically boot into the user interface and establish a Bluetooth connection with the LinkBox when powered on. And that's it. When the customer wants to have this installed by a tech, we will refer them to you, and you can charge them a typical install fee or whatever you want! But it sounds like you get $50-$100 and a happy customer for about 10 minutes of work. At this moment, we are looking for techs in the following areas: Las Vegas, NV Maxton, NC Please let us know if you can help! -BoardFruit, Inc.
  2. GE WCVH6800J1WW Machine stalled during wash cycle. could not get control board into test mode (didn't respond to signal, delay start, signal, delay start). I was told I needed a new control board. Replaced exactly as instructed and empty machine ran through all testable modes (fill, agitate, drain, spin, high speed spin, etc.). With full load machine stalled again. More importantly: NEW BOARD WILL AGAIN NOT GO INTO TEST MODE! Is there something wrong with both boards (old/new) or is some other fault in the machine affecting the board. Can the new board be reset if I can't get it into test mode? Reset by some other mechanism/technique??
  3. Hi I noticed this morning that the water dispenser was not working. It worked fine before. . I also pressed the temperature button and it was reading 13/40. I do not see any frost on the back panel but I didn't take it off .usually that has frost on it when the coils are iced up Last week I had replaced the heater as the defrost was not working and it was then working perfectly 0/36 until now. I checked the defrost and thermastat and all were closed. I checked the thermistor and that was 26k ohm. I had a spare board so I thought it was the board so I replaced that. when I plugged in the unit I would hear the compressor kick in and went to the dispenser and it was 2 set of 00 flashing. at first I thought it was just resetting itself like a modem but it hasnt stopped. I looked on line was said to hold all 4 buttons down for 10 seconds so I did and it beeped and went to alternating 0 side to side. most of the dispenser buttons wont light. Ice ,water etc no green light Is there another board in the dispenser that went bad? Any help greatly appreciated Thanks Wayne
  4. Kitchen Aid model no KSBS25FKBL02 compressor won't start. All fans on. All compressor windings good at 6.5 ohms. Input to inverter board from control board reads 3.33 VDC. Is this too low? What can I do to isolate between control or inverter boards?
  5. I have a Dometic Microwave model 56-2272-10/02, I believe this was made by Frigidaire. Manufactured by reads WCI I am in need of a control board, or help repairing the control board. have not found the part to be available. Any help would be appreciated.
  6. Introducing BoardFruit, Inc! We are hardware engineers with over ten years of specialization in appliance controls. We started out repairing control boards - mostly for ovens, refrigerators, and a few microwaves. Anybody who works on appliances knows well that the electronics do not last long. In fact, it appears they work just long enough to outlast manufacturer warranties and parts supply lines. When they do fail, replacement control boards are generally pretty hard to find, and expensive when available. You can get hard-to-source control boards repaired by a number of different operations around the country, but the success rate isn't the most reliable. Often, the homeowner's equipment can have a number of different parts failures, and the control board is just the tip of the iceberg. Even worse, nobody fixes touchpads. If a touchpad fails, and no replacements can be found, the whole appliance has to go to the landfill!! We are putting an end to this. Imagine: one control board package that can go into nearly any appliance and comes with its own remote touchpad. Anytime we think there might be a control failure or touchpad failure (think F1 error codes), we can just pop one of those babies in and find out real quick whether we've solved the appliance failure. Even better! What if that control board had on-board diagnostics that could tell you what else might be the problem in the appliance? Sounds too good to be true if you ask me. Unfortunately, it is....for now. But we are working on this! We actually do have our first product out right now. It's nowhere near as sophisticated as what I've just described, but it's still pretty cool, and it's keeping expensive Dacor ovens out of the landfill. We've made a slick little gadget that installs on the backside of a failed Dacor oven panel and connects to the OEM control board in place of the OEM touchpad. This little gadget also comes with a 7" touchscreen tablet booted with our custom software - a wireless, digital touchpad that restores full control of the Dacor oven to the homeowner. Check out the next blog post for more details!! This is our introduction to the Appliantology community. We hope to work together with anybody interested. We want your input, feedback, insults, and compliments. Oh, and hopefully you like our products enough to buy them, as well Cheers!
  7. KitchenAid Built-In Refrigerators Control Board W10219463 or 2252159 Replacement View File Note: This Service Pointer addresses Control Board W1029463 or 2252159 replacement for Built-in models Only. Service Pointer W10823379 addresses Control Board W1029463 replacement for Counter Depth models. PUB W10823361 - Rev A Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 10/08/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  
  8. Version 1.0.0

    31 downloads

    Note: This Service Pointer addresses Control Board W1029463 or 2252159 replacement for Built-in models Only. Service Pointer W10823379 addresses Control Board W1029463 replacement for Counter Depth models. PUB W10823361 - Rev A
  9. Maytag Neptune Washer MAH8700AWW will not pump out water. During the Rinse - Spin Cycle, the washer will fill, tumble, stop with 9 minutes remaining on the time display, then eventually show a ND [ no drain ] code. I put the washer on the Spin Only Cycle, but with water in the tub the washer would not spin. I replaced the pump [ WP34001340 ], but it did not solve the no drain problem. With water in the tub, I disconnected the hose which attaches to the pressure switch and capped the switch's vacuum tube where the hose is supposed to be connected. With the vacuum tube capped, and the washer set on Spin Only it will go into its spin cycle despite there being water in the tub, but the washer still won't pump out the water. I checked the pressure switch for continuity [ WP34001324 ] and it is closed between terminals 1 and 3, but open between terminals 1 - 2, and 2 - 3. My first question is should the terminals on the pressure switch read continuity between all 3 terminals or just 1 and 3? My second question is would a defective pressure switch cause the electric water pump not to turn on, or is this a Control Board issue? Thanks
  10. Hi guys, I need some help. The symptom is it won't start- I've looked through all the posts I could find. I think it's the motor, or the control board. I've taken apart the whole dryer. No codes. Tested the door switch, the belt switch. the thermal fuse is good. the motor windings seem low. The main was 2.1 ohms, start was 2.0 ohms. spins freely. The control board doesn't have any burns or anything that looks abnormal. I also tested the P1-3 and P1-4 leads and the resistance was in spec, so it says to replace the board. I really don't want to spend 300 bucks on a board if that's not the problem, or if I can just solder a new relay on the board. I can hear the relay click when I hold start in the diag mode. my question is: how do I check the control board, the motor relay, and the motor? Thanks in advance, Marc
  11. I'm wrestling with a defrost issue with Frigidaire side by side. Had it serviced by a tech due to a drop in temp and alarm beeping. Coils were completely encased in ice. After manually defrosting, heater and defrost thermostat were tested to be within spec. Conclusion of the tech was " bad main control board". Quoted price was 300.00 plus labor. I sourced the part locally (new) and replaced it myself. Fridge came to temp quickly and held with no issues for about a week then the same symtoms appeared - back wall and coils completely iced over, obviously not defrosting. What do I look at next?
  12. From the album Dishwasher Repair

    Shown here for reference in case you need to replace the control board. Buy the replacement control board here with a 1 year return policy: http://www.repairclinic.com/Bosch-Dishwasher-Circuit-Board-Timer-Parts?RCAID=24038 www.Appliance-Repair-Help.com www.AppliancePartsResource.com www.ApplianceGuru.com
  13. File Name: KitchenAid Range Control Board programming File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 29 Jul 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper KitchenAid Range Control Board INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS End of Service Test Procedure KERC607HWH8 KERC607HBL8 KERC607HBS8 KERC607HBT8 KERC607HWW8 Click here to download this file
  14. Version

    25 downloads

    KitchenAid Range Control Board INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS End of Service Test Procedure KERC607HWH8 KERC607HBL8 KERC607HBS8 KERC607HBT8 KERC607HWW8
  15. From the album Washer Repair

  16. From the album Ovens, Ranges, Stoves

    And it's nuked! This failure took out several traces on the board. Amazingly, the clock was still working but neither bake nor broil worked because the line relay was fried. This range was throwing an F1 error code. F1 on a Frigidaire ranges means a bad control board. Sometimes, it's just a burnt solder joint and can be repaired. Buy the replacement control board here with a one year warranty: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/316207511/1036364
  17. From the album Ovens, Ranges, Stoves

    Note the black schmutz exploding from behind the line relay. This range was throwing an F1 error code. F1 on a Frigidaire ranges means a bad control board. Sometimes, it's just a burnt solder joint and can be repaired. Buy the replacement control board here with a one year warranty: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/316207511/1036364
  18. From the album Ovens, Ranges, Stoves

    This range was throwing an F1 error code. F1 on a Frigidaire ranges means a bad control board. Sometimes, it's just a burnt solder joint and can be repaired. Buy the replacement control board here with a one year warranty: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/316207511/1036364