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We consistently have to pull the tray and chop away large chunks of ice at the rear. Both fridge and freezer plenty cold. We dispense ice often so it shouldn't be jamming due to backed up cubes. If it's a leak how do I check/fix?

My daughter’s Samsung RF4287HARS refrigerator doesn’t make ice. I’ve checked out everything I could think of. The fans all work properly. The ice-room is cold enough. I’ve pressed the test switch on the icemaker, and it causes the chime to sound, but the fingers barely rotate (more on that later). I know the water valve works, because I’ve heard the water entering the icemaker, and dumped it out on occasion. Sometimes it makes a few sorry little ice cubes, but not very often. I replaced the icemaker, with no improvement in performance. Here are the symptons: I’ve noticed that the icemaker motor makes noise continuously (it never stops), like it’s trying to operate, but the fingers that eject the ice move VERY slowly. I checked the signal from the arm that detects a full ice bin, and that was working correctly. I noticed the motor is rated 120 VAC. It has three wires: white, brown, and red. The circuit diagrams indicate the red wire is common, and the white and brown are for CCW and CW rotation. I tried powering the motor directly with 120 V, in both directions, but all it did was make the same sound it made in the refrigerator, and the fingers did not rotate. I measured the AC voltage at the terminals on the PCB that power the motor. The terminal for CCW rotation was 86-89V all the time. The terminal for CW rotation was about 8.5V all the time. Anybody know what’s going on here? Is the problem with the icemaker or is the PCB not sending the correct signals to the motor? Why did the new icemaker not fix the problem? Did a faulty PCB sending low voltage to the icemaker damage my new icemaker motor?

While trouble shooting my Fridge's icemaker, I managed to not here the click after shorting the T-H test points, so it is now stuck in a 'Harvest Cycle' continueously! No water is dispensed, it just keeps harvesting air! I have tried to figure out how to return it to normal, by internet searches, and then tried to reset it by unplugging the icemaker plug from the socket, no joy, and then unplugging the Fridge from the wall, waiting over a minute for both actions, no joy! What is the 'trick' to get the Icemaker back to normal mode? Thanks in advance!

I have a 15 something year old Kenmore 253.5569340N refrigerator that is leaking water from the ice maker. It builds up on top of the motor area and also flows onto the top glass shelf and anything stored there. I replaced the water valve this morning and it is still doing it. I did not see a leak in the icemaker when I had it out previously. Where should I check for the leak? I hate throwing money at a 15 year old fridge, but new ones are stupid expensive. Thanks!

I somehow managed to hit buttons on my Frigidaire refrigerator that got me to a place where the display showed something about the ice maker. Thinking that maybe this increased the rate of ice making I hit the up arrow twice to the max level. I figured that I could just change it back if I did something wrong. I was wrong - both times. Now my ice cubes are too big to go through the dispenser. So I think I upped the fill level when I pushed the buttons. None of the documentation that I can find shows the right combination of buttons to push in order to change the fill level back. Would someone please help this bungling DIY-er with the right combination? Thanks a bunch in advance! Debbie

Lines are clear, temp is good, and I've hit the reset - next steps?

The ice maker shutoff arm of my whirlpool refrigerator came off. After I put it back in it will only make one cycle. If I lift the arm up until it clicks and bring it back down it will make another cycle of ice but it will not automatically keep making ice without the manual reset. I have already replaced this arm once when the arm fell off before. Is it possible the arm isn't set correctly? It is difficult to get it back in without removing the door and the basket underneath but if that will do it if that fixes it. I just don't want to have to shell out another $25 for about 12 cents worth of metal. If I am reading the code correctly I believe the refrigerator was manufactured in 2012 Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matt

A customer complained that the ice dispenser does not work properly. The ice bin is full of ice. The door dispenser switch works and the auger makes loud churning noises but no ice comes through the dispenser shoot in freezer door, the flapper does open. I checked the auger motor and it turns as it should without any slipping when I hold onto the auger fork. I checked that the Ice bin is fully seated so that the auger engages the motor. Still, only one cube of ice falls out of the shoot. I replaced the auger assembly thinking something is wrong with it. Same thing happening with the new auger assembly installed. Any clues why ice is not dropping out as it should be?

I have the exact (and I mean exact) same problem as described in the last post in this thread - https://appliantology.org/topic/53118-whirlpool-icemaker-gi15nflts2-service-manual/. Kitchenaid KUIS15NRTSO. Basically, not enough water is being dispensed into the reservoir to make ice. Already replaced water level sensor. Diagnostics show that it can tell an empty reservoir from a full one. Water dispenser runs for 35 seconds, but doesn't come close to filling the tank. The water dispensing solenoid needs to stay on much longer. Seems like the controller is shutting it off too soon. The ice maker behaves the same with the water level sensor unplugged. The ice maker make ices and drops it onto the cutting grid without a problem if you manually fill the reservoir. Next stop - replacing the controller board?? Thoughts? Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

I have no water supply from water inlet valve to icemaker due to no power at ice maker solenoid. Water inlet valve itself was replaced. Ice maker electrical connector to inlet valve and water supply connector to inlet valve were temporarily swapped to test new inlet valve itself. Valve works-supplies water to ice maker. I'm looking for schematics on the water inlet valve and ice maker. I suspect an ice maker mold temperature sensor failure (which means I replace the complete ice maker assembly) But I'd like to verify instead of throwing parts at it. Professional advise or electrical diagrams are appreciated.

Hey Guys, Samsung Icemaker was not making ice, only thing I found was a thick buildup of ice on the bottom of the cover of the cube tray. Thawed the ice, it filled with water on its own, and while I was checking other things it dumped a load. Two questions: What would have caused ice build up on the BOTTOM of that plastic cover (almost like stalagmites)? It didnt look like reem frost and I didnt see any anywhere else, besides a small bit of pooled ice below the cover at the bottom of the icemaker assy (near the auger motor). Gasket seemed tight... And, do you think it could have been a fluke thing and I'm good to go at this point since it filled with water and dropped ice? I was going to post a pic, but cant see where to do that??? Thanks, Jared