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Hi folks, We have a 20+ year old GE JE1860SB sensing microwave. I have only had to replace the lamp in it once, it has been great and still looks (stainless steel model) and works well with exception of the sensor which no longer works. It used to be very accurate using the "popcorn" or "potato" preset buttons although now it turns off much too soon when using sensing modes. The manual mentions a humidity sensor, my guess is to start by replacing that. Here is what the manual says: Does anyone have any suggestions to restore the auto sensing functionality?

hello to all those with a frigidaire dishwasher showing the error code i30 and the drain pump continuously running..... i think i have a (at least temporary) solution!!! (bottom of post) apparently this is a systemic problem with a poorly designed pressure switch that get clogged with food and grease causing the above symptoms. the long term fix would be to get the updated sensor= 5304504077 Pressure Sensor , but for now...... background info: put dishes in washer without rinsing them first. some had bits of salad still on them. ran a normal cycle, emptied dishes. half hour later the drain pump just starts running, error code i30 displayed, sump is empty, door is open...?? so i turned off the breaker to the washer. SOLUTION 1) put two scoops of "BIO CLEAN" with a quart of water into the dishwasher ( https://www.gonzocart.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=290&language=en&currency=USD ), 2) used a zip tie to poke around the pressure sensor opening to loosen any food particles. you need a flexible thingy to reach into the opening of the sensor from the sump. 3) waited 24 hours 4) turned on the breaker....drain pump does stays off, no error code, operating panel displays normally. 5) ran the rinse cycle. the contents of the dishwasher backs up into the kitchen sink showing both the BIO CLEAN stuff and bits of salad. ran the disposal to clear, cycle finishes normally! drain pump does not later turn on by itself. SUCCESS so, guess i will have to preclean the plates and occasionally use the bio clean just in case.

Have a Bosch Natural Gas Dryer, Model #WTVC6530UC/11. NG Burner Assy won't light not will the igniter glow. Was working intermittently until last week, now won't light or glow to start at all. Dryer powers up and tumbles on all modes. . . . just will not heat up. When it WAS heating, it would often click rapidly, like an electrical switch/relay cycling like 5-10 times per second. It almost sounded like a bucket of BB's rattling around from upstairs. It was definitly an electrical cycling sound. Would last maybe 2-4 sec. max and stop. - took apart and checked for lint blockages in pipe and exhaust - all clean - thoroughly cleaned lint filter, lint filter area, and cleaned off moisture sensor with alcohol. - this exact same issue cropped up about 2 years ago. Ended up replacing the gas valve/burner assy #00497969 and igniter #00491648 - this solved the problem of the dryer not heating. But, the rapid electrical cycling during operation would still happen randomly during operation. The dryer would continue to work. . . . but that cycling noise just wasn't right. - started to happen more often lately. Dryer wouldn't work for a few loads, then would randomly start drying/heating again. Tried unplugging the unit. . . .sometimes that would help, but don't know if it was simply coincidence. Now, the dryer hasn't heated up in over a week. Have tried every cycle and trick, but can't get it to light off. - 2 years ago, had checked and tried jumpering all sensors - lint sensor, moisture sensor, hi-limit sensor, flame sensor, NTC, but was unable to get dryer to work when I did that, so replaced gas valve and igniter, which solved the immediate issue of dryer not heating. Has anyone ever experienced this rapid electrical cycling noise before? Assume it's a sensor sending conflicting signals and rapidly changing from open-to-closed, but perhaps it happened so fast, the burners stayed lit? What sensor or device would cause such a noise? Could this "bad" sensor have caused the gas valve to fail again? I thought this dryer had a diagnostic mode. I would think with all of these sensors and built-in diagnostics it could tell you what failed, or at least have provided an "error code" when the gas valve won't light. Why does it have this diagnostic system, if it can't even tell it's not operating/heating up? Does anyone know how to access the diagnostics on the machine, and how I could check for a possible failed part or error code?? Are there any "common problems" on the gas dryers that I should check for? I don't want to blindly purchase a new gas valve or igniter like I did last time, as I feel they should be OK since they were both recently replaced. Any thoughts? Suggestions? Troubleshooting tips? All modes work (tumble) as they should. . . . dryer just won't heat up. I haven't tried jumpering or disconnecting any of the sensors this time around. Was looking for advice before diving in again. I know how to take the entire machine apart, and have no issue getting to any of the components. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide. KenB

I have a Roper RED4640YQ1 Dryer. It does not complete the drying cycle on either Automatic Dry or on Timed Dry. On Automatic Dry the timer doesn't move at all, however in Timed Dry the timer will advance all the way down to the "cool down" section, but it never advances past this point, the heat doesn't shut off and the dryer will never stop until the door is opened. What likely needs replaced to fix my dryer? I know it's not the START button, I'm thinking it must be a sensor of some sort.

File Name: Samsung Tech Tip: Testing Refrigerator Sensors and Printed Circuit Boards (PCB) File Submitter: applianceman97 File Submitted: 31 Jul 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Theory and methods of testing sensors and PCBs applies to all Samsung models. PUB ASC20061103002 Click here to download this file