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Vissani MCWC50DS Wine Cooler I'm t'shooting a Vissani wine cooler (I believe Danby Appliances is the manufacturer). I hear the very clear sound of gurgling from one specific location in the back of the appliance. I want to access this area to investigate the source of the noise. The back cover appears to be Plasticore. I cannot remove the sheet metal case nor the plastic interior. I need to see the refrigerant line in the area circled in red. I prefer not to cut into the Plasticore, since obviously I don't want to nick the refrigerant line. Feel free to post suggestions on how I should access this area.

My Kenmore 795.71013.011 bottom-freezer fridge (here's a picture of the fridge tag with model number) is not cooling (both the fridge and the freezer are warm). Here are the things I have tested and what I have noticed: These things seem to be working fine: The evaporator fan runs fine inside the fridge The evaporate coils do not have frost on them, so the defroster system seems fine The condenser coils on the back of the fridge (inside the back panel near the floor) are clean (no dirt/dust issues) The condenser coil fan is running fine These are the issues I have noticed: The compressor is running on a regular cycle, but it seems to be drawing too little current (anywhere from 0.5 Amps to 0.8 Amps during the cycle) The compressor also does not draw consistent current throughout the cycle. It starts at 0.8 A, goes down to 0.5 A, then back up to 0.8 A before it stops. The compressor makes a strange noise when it stops the cycle (see this video to see the current draw during the cycle as well as the strange noise at the end of the video) The compressor isn't really heating up during operation; it's maybe slightly higher than room temperature The refrigerant lines into and out of the compressor are pretty much room temperature all the time

Bought a fridge from someone, they told me the repair man said there was a leak which is why they were getting rid of it. I checked for leaks and couldn't find anything, tried to start up the fridge and the compressor overload tripped a little afterwards. Figured out the low side was going into a full vacuum so I isolated the cap tube (which was completely restricted) and purged it with 300 psi of nitro until what looked like some oxidation came out the other end. I decided to flush the cap tube with one of those flush canisters and ac flush until there was an uninterrupted stream at the other end then purge with nitro afterwards. I reassembled the the cap tube, installed a new filter, triple evac, and weighed in a new charge. Checked to make sure the low side wasn't going into a vacuum and let the fridge cool down. After waiting about a full day the temp in the freezer is only showing 44 F. I have waited a couple of hours and it seems to be stuck at that temp. I have a bad feeling that the cap tube is still restricted (not completely blocked but restricted) even after I purged it. I really don't have much experience with this so I'm reaching out for some ideas why the fridge is taking so long to cool down.

Hi everyone, I've been trying to figure out what's going on with my fridge. I have a Whirlpool W8RXEGMWB00 built in 02/2010. Simply stated, one day it completely stopped cooling. I can leave it run all day and it will not drop below room temperature. The fan runs and the light works, however, the compressor is warm, so I am assuming it is not kicking on. I have tested continuity of the thermostat, which was fine, as well as continuity of the 3 prongs on the compressor, which all were equal, and also power to the inverter board and compressor, which was fine. There is only 1 single red wire that leads to the inverter that I assume is the "trigger wire" so to speak, I am unsure how to test that. I am now stuck as to where to proceed next. Any and all advice would be much appreciated. At this point my guess is it's either the inverter board, or possibly the defrost board (I am not sure if the defrost board would cause this condition or not, or how it could be tested), unless of course there is something I am missing. Thank you in advance!

So I have an LG bottom freezer, LFC25760st, that had a bad evap fan motor in it which has been replaced. Now since that new motor was put in the freezer is working fine but the top refrigerator section is not working at all. The lights won't come on and it is not recieving any cold air as if the air damper or baffle won't open. However when it's in test mode everything is working properly. Any help is appreciated.

I have an LG refrigerator model LFC21700ST which has side by side at top and freezer on bottom - that is not cooling either in the refrigerator or freezer. Prior to this water leaked on the floor fairly frequently and ice sheets were deposited in the bottom of the freezer. A week ago it stopped cooling but has power and lights and the compressor gets warm but not overly warm – fans also run and go off when doors are open. One click is heard just before the compressor starts and this seems to come from the main board. I have done a number of things so far and there has been no improvement: 1. Changed the main board – I had one already and thought this would rule this outlines 2. Changed the thermistor w/ fuse 3. Changed the start relay and overload – but the old one is actually good – and compressor did not start with new start relay and overload - both start relays had similar continuities and both capacitors with within tolerances. 4 Checked the heat coil continuity which is ok – and no error code during test mode 5. Examined evap coils in freezer as far as I can tell - ok 6. Cleaned the drain from freezer which had trash in it 7. Cleaned compressor condenser coils 8. Checked compressor for short – ok 9. Checked continuity of compressor pins – ok – I think 6,6,12 roughly – one may have been a little lower than the other rather than 6,6 10. Checked receptacle and plug - ok 11. Checked lower wires between compressor and plug to wires running to main board – ok 12 Checked continuity from hot spade of plug to hot connector on plug of harness running from main board N pin to capacitor on compressor start relay 13. Checked continuity from hot (and neutral) spade on plug to black wire ( that runs next to blue wire) running from main board L pin for start relay - here there was no continuity (OL) and I did not know if this actually ran from the hot side or neutral of the plug but I am guessing hot but there was no continuity on either anyway -should there be? Or is there some switch that is open until a close is called for or vice versa? 14. The amp draw on both blue line (N to capacitor) and black line (L to PTC) is 0.5 A – initially 0.7-.8 then drops to around 0.5A and stays as long as it is plugged in. There is one click at the main panel just before the compressor turns on and one as it turns off otherwise runs quietly and it gets gently warm and the vibrations can be felt - seems like maybe not enough power to compressor(?) 15. Ran tests as indicated on back of refrigerator and got no error codes. 16. I did not check for compressor run from isolated plug because I do not have one and was not sure how to do it safely Any ideas? Can it be a damaged black wire in the upper harness to the main board limiting power input to compressor? Can it be the compressor, or another related part interfering with the working of the compressor? Also I was told that low amp draw if everything else is normal may indicate low coolant level, is this true (even if not necessarily in this case?) I do not understand the necessary connections between these components and their internal workings well enough to draw any reliable conclusions yet. Thanks for any help anyone is able to offer. Pauli

Hello and thanks for this excellent resource! Whirlpool side by side fridge model EC3JHAXRL00. She quit cooling. No compressor, no fan. After unplugging to disassemble, then plugging in to check voltages, fan came on. Later fan did not come on. About a month ago I replaced the capacitor to the fan and she has run fine until now. Capacitor still looks good and is tight in motherboard (MOBO). I read the post below and am trying to determine if the inverter is bad or the motherboard. Here are my numbers: Compressor 9.6 ohms all three terminals = check Power input to inverter = 220 V AC ==check I get no current draw on the feed while all connected and power on. SO, I suspect the inverter. I could not reach the J15 terminals on MOBO, so checked at plug to inverter = 3.3 V DC. Post below indicates should be 4-6 V DC. Is this a case where values can vary between models or is my inverter not getting enough voltage? If so, does this explain why no current draw from inverter? Questions: which one is bad, inverter or MOBO (main control) board, or both. Any other tests? Should the fan come on regardless if the inverter is bad? Or is it being off normal because after all, compressor is not hot? Thanks for any help. Food is in coolers, so it's either fix it ASAP or time for new one!

HI all, it's been a while since I've been here - which for me means everything is working correctly, (last post on this fridge was about 5 years ago). Last year (about 10-11 months ago) the fan underneath the back was making a lot of noise and rattling. Fridge seemed to be doing ok. I replaced the fan with a new one and it all seemed ok. Recently (about the last month) several times I have heard the fridge "turn on" and sound like it was going to run only to abruptly shut off again. After the second time I heard it do that, I turned the knob inside all the way off and back on and it seemed to run fine. Then last week it just wasn't cooling very well - the top of the freezer was thawing and the ice in the tray was melting. I'm not positive that one of the kids didn't leave the freezer door open or something, but ever since then it seems to be not cooling well. I've turned it off and on at the temp knob a few times just to make sure that it seems to be running and the compressor is getting power. I'm not really sure where to go from here. I looked at the pdf: flow chart (http://fixitnow.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/39305150-Warm-Refrigerator-Troubleshooting-Flowchart.pdf) and think that I'm at the "Is the compressor running?" diamond. I don't know how to tell if it is a sealed unit, or where to check the start relay (but the relay sounds like it might be the problem based on my car fixing experiences). (Also, sorry if this should be in a different section - I couldn't seem to post in the Kitchen Appliance Repair forums that my previous post are in). All help and advice is greatly appreciated!!!

I have a 14 year old Sub-zero 642. The freezer works fine and holds temp. The refrigerator section will hold temp for days or weeks no problem and then all of a sudden go from 38 to 45. I thought that maybe it was because we overloaded the fridge but it happens whether full or less full and no matter the temperature in the house. I have no issue calling in a professional to fix it but I want to know a little about the issue so I am not taken advantage of. Any help is appreciated. I have looked at other forums and see others where the same thing has happened but haven't seen a consistent answer. Thanks in advance for any insights.

Hello folks. Having some problems that I thought I had solved last week, but yesterday they reared up again. Allow me to give the full back story - about two weeks ago, my LG LMX25981ST refrigerator began to make this click sound every few minutes, and eventually we noticed that the compartments were warm and the ice dispenser was leaking water (ice was melting because of the warm compartment temps). After some googling and youtube watching, I determined that the clicking was a sign of a bad compressor start relay. I pulled the start relay off of my fridge and looked for the replacement part on AppliancePartsPros. The replacement part on there did not resemble the part I pulled off my fridge, so I emailed them and they told me there are several different specific versions of my model fridge, and they needed my serial # to determine the specific part my fridge needed. Eventually the APP guy emailed me with a replacement start relay that looked like the part I pulled off my fridge. Ordered, received within a day, installed, fridge seemed to be working normally again. Measured temps with a digital thermometer & all good. Within a day or two, I started noticing that despite the fridge & freezer seeming to work correctly, there was some kind of growling noise for maybe 3-6 seconds every time I'd close the fridge doors before the compressor or fans (not sure?) would kick on. Might have happened after closing the freezer doors as well but I am not sure. I can say for sure though that the growling noise happened every time after closing the fridge doors, and afterward it sounded normal - steady quiet hum. Anyway, thought this was peculiar & tried a little to diagnose it but couldn't determine a specific issue. Otherwise the fridge was working so I let it go. Fast forward to yesterday and suddenly the freezer nor fridge are cooling anymore. Temps are in the 50s in both compartments. There is no clicking this time so I think the replacement start relay I got is probably fine (unless it caused the aforementioned growling) and maybe there is another problem. I believe the fans are still attempting to push cold(ish) air into the compartments because when I open the doors and manually press the door switches, there seems to be some air moving in from the back of each compartment. I can't fully go through the refrigerator warm flowchart right now because I am not sure I can move the fridge by myself to access the back panel & check on the condenser/condenser fan etc. I will confirm my path on the flowchart within a couple days when I can get help moving the fridge. But if anyone has any early ideas based on what I've said so far as to why my fridge is warm, I'd really appreciate any and all advice. Thanks all! Let me know if I can provide any other info and I'll try to produce it.

Can't find a manual in the download section. Very difficult communicating with older person on phone. Best I can understand is they lost all the food in unit 3 days ago. GE GSS25JFMAA

Was wondering if anyone had any advice on the overload and relay for the compressor on a water cooler. My local parts distributor doens't stock parts for this brand and cannot reccomend a 'generic' compressor relay and overload for this tucomseh compressor. Anyone have any part numbers for me that will work?? Thanks Guys!