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Maytag Top loader washer LAT9706AAE Washer will not spin/drain when the load is set to "normal" wash load. I can get it to spin out on the "delicate" load selection on the dial. I am thinking it is the timer. I am perplexed though, because the "on" light still lights up even on the non functioning spin cycles on the Washer? I can not tell from the wiring diagram if it will light "on" to tell you it is getting power, even if the "spin" cam is out on it? Mama needs to get diaper laundry washed and is on a crazy tight budget. Is it likely the timer and is it worth ordering such an expensive part? I have kept her alive this long, she is kind of like family! Thank you!

Whirlpool Refrigerator Installation Instructions For 482493 Defrost Timer Kit Rev R View File PUB 482494 Rev. R 8/97 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 04/15/2019 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

I have a Hotpoint HDA3600H35WW and recently had the timer replaced. Now you have to rotate the dial about 1/2” past the Start line to begin the wash cycle. Is there a way to align the dial?

Friend has a 3 year old roper washer, RTW4440vq2 model - she said there had been a whine from the timer, and some selections not wanting to work. She called a repair person, but the bill was too high, she threw away the receipt, and just paid his service call. Would this necessarily be the timer, and why would a timer go out so soon? Is the Roper brand no longer the quality brand it used to be? She does not abuse her appliances. I thought a timer would only go out if turned backwards, or really roughly used. I am wondering if this is worth repairing, or if a new timer from repair clinic would be of better quality, if this is the problem -

Got a confusing problem. Here's what I know about the Regular cycle: Fills and drains fine, both water temperatures, but the drum doesn't rotate slowly in either direction, in any part of the cycle. It does not move at all until the final spin. The final spin works as normal, slowly clockwise for a few seconds, then fast clockwise for about a minute (when empty) then coasting to a stop. There is also no slow rotation in either direction after the final spin has come to a stop, which it used to do. In short, the drum and motor don't move except for the final spin. Here's what I know about the various parts: The door lock seems to be fine: the "door lock" light comes on, there's no change when I push in on the door, and the solenoid isn't buzzing like it does when the door is not fully closed. The drain pump runs (I can feel it vibrating) appropriately, the tub drains fine, and good flow rate exits the discharge tube. Final buzzer works normally and sounds at the correct time. The motor speed controller is highly suspect except that I can hear the relays clicking on it at all the times the drum should be changing directions. The tech sheet I found inside the cabinet includes a series of diagnostic steps for "motor will not run" so I went through them even though it spins fine, and some of the steps are strange, others bizarre. For example, step 3 says to measure voltage between pins 2 & 4 of the 4-pin, and you get no voltage suspect the motor thermal cut out. I got 0 V, but it can't be the motor thermal cutoff because the motor runs fine for the final spin. Bizarrely, step 5 suggests checking voltage between pin 3 on the 9-pin plug and pin 4 of the 4-pin plug. Well there IS no pin 3 on the 9-pin plug; it's an empty hole, no wire there! I got no voltage on any combination of pins on the 4-pin plug when the cycle was beginning (but empty of both clothes and water, per the instructions on the tech sheet), which would be relevant except that the motor isn't supposed to run when there's no water in there yet. I'm thinking the tech sheet is just wrong or poorly written. The belt is in great shape; tight, good contact, no hot smell, all good. Drum suspension seems good; drum moves smoothly (but not excessively) in all directions, nicely balanced, no banging. Timer feels normal when turning it. Bottom line: I suspect the motor speed controller and/or the timer, but which, and how to tell? There are no error-code LEDs on this machine. I suppose it could also be the motor if there are different windings for slow speeds, or something else I've never heard of. Help!! (and thanks)

Hi All, I need a color coded diagram for the timer on a Maytag A208 washer. My brother changed the timer in my Mothers(stay with me) washer and it doesn't work at all. He must have misconnected a wire and I need a schematic/diagram to help him. Maytag was no help. Thanks in advance!

I have a Kenmore Series 80 Gas Dryer. The dryer came with the house. I cannot find a model number or serial number on it, and actually, the Kenmore name on the front appears to be covered in white out. So I can't be more specific about the model. The unit is not running - but the timer is, and it won't stop. We had a load which more or less successfully completed the other night as the clothes were dry. When I went to get the clothes, I found the timer had advanced to the next cycle. The unit wasn't running though. I found that if I set the timer to any normal cycle, I'd get a buzzing sound, but nothing much was happening. There was also a smell - a vague burning smell. I took the unit apart, pulled out the drum, put it back, etc. When I opened the top back, it seemed to me that the timer itself had a latent burning smell. Since the timer had advanced when it shouldn't have; since I could manually turn the drum and motor and saw nothing wrong with the belt; and since the timer itself smelled faintly as though it had burnt out; I went ahead and order a new timer. I ordered a Whirlpool 3976576A timer. It arrived, it is an exact match. It does not solve the problem. In trying the new timer, though, I found that the timer-won't-stop thing is persisting. I left the timer to go on its own for a few minutes to see if in fact it would try to advance into a cycle. It did, though the unit still won't run. But there is clearly something burning. It is much more obviously something electrical (as opposed to the belt). I found the smell really wasn't present inside the cabinet, but it is present inside the top back panel where the timer is, and it is also present further below following the line of wires. I can't, on visual inspection, see anything wrong with any particular wire. The control board does not look amiss either, and it really does not seem like the smell is emanating from the control board. But I can't pinpoint the smell exactly. The problem, to me, is obviously electrical. The timer won't stop (when the door is closed); the unit won't run no matter what. When the timer is in a cycle it is buzzing. I do have a multimeter but I frankly don't know what to even try and test. I don't usually deal with electrical issues like this. I am hoping that the description of the problem sounds familiar to someone and they can point me in a clearer direction.

File Name: Maytag Dryer MDE / MDG Timer / Wiring / Harness changes File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 06 Feb 2014 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Maytag Dryer MDE / MDG Timer / Wiring / Harness changes MDE6400AYQ MDE6400AYW MDE7400AYQ MDE7400AYW MDE7400AZQ MDE7400AZW MDE7460AYQ MDE7460AYW MDE7657BYQ MDE7657BYW MDE7658BYQ MDE7658BYW MDE8400AYQ MDE8400AYW MDG6400AWQ MDG6400AWW MDG7400AWQ MDG7400AWW MDG7460AWQ MDG7460AWW MDG7657BWQ MDG7657BWW MDG7658BWQ MDG7658BWW MDG8400AWQ MDG8400AWW TDL-0033-S.pdf TDL-0040-B.pdf TDL-0057-B.pdf TDL-0068-B.pdf Click here to download this file