Well ladies and gents. Sorry I have been MIA for a while. Life has been crazy with service calls and my new technician. Also had our first baby (technician in training) . It's been an amazing experience. I am loving every second of it. It has been tough through all the changes which is why i have been absent from here for a bit. But i'm BACK! I hope the Samurai and Durham have been holding the fort down and not letting you guys get away with too much! hahaha.
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Webinar Recordings Index Page 07/27/2017One of the benefits of your Professional Appliantologist membership is that you can attend the regular, live training webinars and you have access to the recordings as well. So if you can't make it to the live webinar, catch the recording at your convenience. The webinar recordings are conveniently listed for you on the Webinar Recordings Index Page.
See this calendar event for details:
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I Evernote this from another post:
Run Forever, Turns on By Itself, Continues to run.
Compliant: Customer started a wash, left the house, came back home 5 hours later and washer was still running. Later that night she said that as they were watching tv the washer started up all by itself.
This washer was stuck in the "Endless Test Cycle". Tech Line said that this is used to test the washers before they leave the factory.
Tech Line said that if this was a new washer it would simply mean that someone at the factory forgot to take the control out of the Endless Test Cycle. However, he said that for the past year to year and a half they have been seeing these washers putting themselves into the Endless Test Cycle and the Engineers are stumped as to why this is happening.
To turn Endless Test Cycle On or Off:
Put the washer into Diagnostics, turn the dial to the LEFT (counter-clockwise) until the Wash- Rinse- Done lights are on. Push Start. If the washer powers Off you have just taken the washer OUT of Endless Test Cycle. If the washer starts to Fill you have just put the washer INTO Endless Test Cycle.
If the washer powers OFF, unplug for 5 seconds, plug back in and wait 10 seconds, if the washer does NOT start to Fill you have successfully taken the washer out of Endless Test Cycle.
He said that they have also been seeing replacement Control Boards leaving the factory that have not been taken out of Endless Test Cycle. He said that if you replace a Control on these washers to go in and check to make sure that Endless Test Cycle is indeed turned off.
Source: wtw4800bq0 Whirlpool
This is mainly for anybody that is new to working on Bosch products. Their schematics can be intimidating. Here is how decode them.
Ran into this frigidaire/electrolux drain pump today. Had not replaced this one before. I had the usual front load pump in stock. After looking at the new style and the old style motor i found that they used the same drain motor just a different housing and mounting base. I ended up removing the motor from the old style pump and mounting it to the new style housing and mounting base. This pump is mounted sideways right in the front of the unit. After changing out the motor it worked like a Charm.
Just wanted to share in case not all of you had seen this newer style pump. Looks like they have 2 different ones like this. Here is what it looks like.
Recently got a call for a Samsung washer door lock replacement. I Pre-screened the call and looked at the door lock assy and it looked just like the Part number: 8182634
I have always used the whirlpool lock assy on Samsung washers. They have fit perfectly and have worked like a charm also increasing my FCC. Being able to stock one lock for many brands makes life much easier.
Well, I got to the home and went to install the latch and the electrical molex plugs were different. DOH! Even though the latch the latch looked the same and know the 8182634 worked on previous repairs, it would not on this one.
After researching the part i found that multiple latches were listed for my model number WF350ANP/XAA 03. I was not able to find the the 03 version on any breakdown. I found a 01 and 04 on Samsung parts.com. Either way it pulled up the same two latches and in the description of the part it read,
Please remove original part and check sticker on part for correct part number before ordering
So between APP, Repair Clinic, Sears and Samsungparts I could not tell which lock assy i needed for sure. So as stated above, Make sure to check your part numbers on these latches. They have changed them from the 8182634.
I ended up using
Do you use appliantology from your smartphone or tablet instead of a desktop. I know I do. Want to post those nifty APP links but don't have the ability from your mobile device? Well here is how you do it.
All you have to do is just type this code in when posting.
[ app ] Your Partnumber [ /app ]
No spaces between any of that.
This all the APP button does on the desktop site. So now your just inputting it manually.
I'm posting this from my tablet
Hi Boys and Girls,
So we all have seen the basket speed sensor fault on the VMW washer's right??? Well I had one with that fault code but i could not produce the problem at time of servicing the machine. All functions tested good. Tach verification mode passed. EVERYTHING checked good. Ran rinse and spin loads, seriously... the machine worked perfect!
Well long story short, got a call back the NEXT day. Complaint was no spin again. Got there and did all my testing and AGAIN everything checked good.
Then I had the customer load the machine with a load and ran a rinse and spin cycle. Guess what it ran FINE! It took 3 rinse and spin cycles until the fault showed up again. Sure enough it was the basket speed sensor fault. I quickly went to the tach verification mode and the test failed. Intermittent actuator (well optic sensor) failure.
So double and triple check your optic sensors folks. They can fail intermittently!!!
Source: Whirlpool VMW Speed sensor fault
Whirlpool Dishwasher (GWS Style)
Ser# FY3401292 (Manufactured 8/2009 - must be one of the first of these out, I thought they started in 2010).
Main pump hose, (has those funky machine squeezed clamps), slipped off sump connection. I replaced with good real hose clamp, one month later it has slipped off again.
I did extensive searching in here because I thought I had read an earlier account of someone else having this problem and some kind of recall on this but the only thing I could find was this tech bulletin W10547922
Samurai posted the above after I asked more about it when it was discussed in another thread but it only purtains to a few models/stainless units manufactured in 2012 and only references a $8-$12 single hose clamp, basically what I already tried.
I looked up the hoses/clamps for this unit and it comes back as an expensive kit with both inlet/outlet pump hoses, new rubber rear motor mount and 5 really good hose clamps - it appears you would use two of the clamps on the end of the hose that slips off the sump.
Here is the new hose and clamp kit:
Anyone have access to Service Matters to see if this kit has an instruction sheet that comes with it and/or know of any tech bulletins purtaining to this problem in the early models of the GWS dishwashers?
Is this going to fix the problem of the hose slipping off and flooding the kitchen?
Great info from brother Budget! Thanks Brother!!!
I recently went out on a repair where the customer had already attempted to fix his machine (ugh, we know all know how that goes. Anyway, he had diagnosed the problem to be his CCU and ordered the part himself and installed. After installation his main error he was receiving was fixed but the display was not correct. The display showed 37 minutes for all cycles except Whitest Whites and Clean cycle. They just showed - - (double dashes). Because I got thrown into this repair late I kinda got screwed. With the new CCU installed I figured it was good since it was new so i Completely unloaded the CCU. Only had Power input to the board and my UI connected. Still got the same display. This told me we had a bad UI. Ordered new UI.
Received new UI and went out to install it and when i did i received the same problem. I had another CCU and i installed it as well and STILL got the same display problem. 37 minutes and double dashes. So lets recap here. 2 new CCU's and a Display board and the problem is still there. THERE IS NOTHING ELSE TO CAUSE THIS PROBLEM!!!. I was pissed to say the least.
SO I called my parts supplier and we did some digging together and found that he still had the old version of this CCU still in stock. So I got that one, went out to the customers home and installed it and THAT FIXED IT!
Are you kidding me????? Dumb ass Whirlpool can't make the right part for their own machines.
SO here you go. So far the affected models I know about are
110.47531701 (Brother ToneBlair found this one)
I will keep adding models and feel free to comment models you find as well.
Source: Samsung 2014 dishwasher training
Source: Whirlpool RSTI training Portland, OR
Whirlpool washer and dryer RSTI training notes
I couldn't find this issue in the archives. The lid is locked, light on solid. It continues to run the drain pump even after unplugging and plugging back in. I cannot enter the diagnostic mode. The green light on the control board is on. I lifted the top and noticed the clothes in the washer were dry and loose so this problem must have occurred before the washer filled.
Info from Brother Adirondack Bob,
Per Tech Line from a call I had a couple months ago-
Voltage to the washer was lost for whatever reason.
When power is re-applied the Drain Pump will run for 6-9 minutes.
If washer is unplugged and plugged back in, pump will start over and run for 6-9 minutes again.
Solution is to let pump run until it shuts off on its own.
Went to work on a frigidaire built kemore range with a no DOA complaint and here's what i found.
Here's how Install the rear boot spring on a frigidaire front load washer. Using clamps is much easier to hold the spring than the wedges frigidaire includes in the box.
Sorry everyone, held my phone in the wrong direction
Here is a different way of calibrating an oven. The cast iron pan measures the cooking temperature in the oven cavity. There much less swing in temperature by using this method than a standard thermocouple. One thing you cant tell from the thermocouple is how long your oven stays at the min and max temperature. While using the cast iron pan method you KNOW what temperature the oven is cooking at.
The reason a cast iron pan is used in this method is because the mass of the the cast iron and the unreflective surface will give an accurate reading from the IR gun. You can't use an IR gun inside the oven cavity without the cast iron because the thin reflective metal will always read incorrect. You have to have the non reflective dense cast iron pan.
THis particular oven cycle at these temps (after calibration)
Thermocouple ranged from roughly 340 degrees to 395 degrees.
Cast iron pan temperatures read (done throughout cycling) 343,359,356 and the highest reading at the top of the cycle was just under 380. Its much easier to get the average temp of the cast iron pan vs the thermocouple.
By now most of us have encountered the F7 E5 error on the whirlpool VMW washers. But here's a blog on it anyway.
This is a drive motor error. When the machine is started the sensing part of the load starts and usually when this error is present the machine will shut down after a few seconds and the lid lock light starts flashing. This means the main board is not sensing the rotation of the basket correctly or not sensing basket movement at all.
First step in diagnosing this problem is making sure the basket turns free and is not jammed in any way. Then check for correct voltages at the main board (have yet to change a main board for this issue some techs skip this step and move straight to the shift actuator.) This is issue can also be caused by an optic sensor falure. The optic sensor is inside the shifter assy. You will the replace the whole shifter assy to fix the optic sensor failure. In my experience the optic sensor is usually the cause of this error. There is an optic sensor test you can access and by spinning the basket by hand the lights on the control will dance showing the optic sensor is reading movement. The exact procedure is in the tech manual.
The shifter is not always the cause of this error though. Remember that VMW's just point you close to the problem not leading you directly to the part failure so always check main board connections and wire connections at motor and shifter assy. Also check the red coil of wire on the bottom of the tub for a broken wire.
There has been one case that i have heard (from Kurtiusinterupptus) that the drive block was the cause of this fault. The machine would start to run and just shut down and the lid lock light would flash just like when a shifter fails. After 2 shifter replacements (thought one was bad out of the box) Whirlpool tech line help (didn't help much) and much frustration brother Kurtius got it whipped.
If your battling an F7E5 error make sure you are armed with a shift actuator. This will be your most common replacement. Also be aware of the drive block problem. The drive block failure has not been common in these machines but im sure more will come. So be aware the drive block can cause the error as well as the other listed components in the tech manual.
Also check to make sure the transmission drive pulley is not loose/broken. This problem could also occur when there is a stripped splutch. Capacitor could also cause a motor error.
Here is a list of common VMW parts that are failing. Some cause the drive error, some do not.Common
I have a few problems with the new flex tray ice maker from the Electrolux products. Specifically the thermistors breaking off the bottom of the tray. This can cause many problems with ice production and can also tangle your thermistor in the auger assembly.
If your thermistor has broken off the bottom of the tray here is what you will see when you pull out the bucket.
Changing this ice maker is pretty simple. There are 3 screws holding on the front bezel. A Philips head in the right side of the bezel. Also a Philips head in the bottom left of the bezel (going up). When the screws are removed, slip the bezel down and pull out.
Next remove the wire cover in front of the ice maker. It is held on with one screw.
Then all you have to do is pull the ice maker towards you to remove it from the four holding pins.
Now your almost home free. The only thing left you have to do is cut the 2 zip ties holding the wires to the ice maker housing. Make sure to have short wire cutters or a good set of toe nail clippers for the rear zip ties. There is barely any room to cut the rear tie (that's where the specialty nail cutters come into play)
Then just reverse your steps to re install.
Another note on these model,
These ice rooms are cooled by the sealed system being ran into the ice compartment. There is a separate evaporator fan in the ice room. If you ever have to pull off the ice room evaporator cover to fix a defrost issue or fan problem you always have to replace the seal kit. This seal kit is a great "truck stock" item.
For the non direct drive whizzes. Here's what i found on one of my latest service calls. This drive coupler was changed (The other used appliance store said) 4 months ago. This shows the difference between an OEM heavy duty coupler and an off brand junker! If your burning through couplers you could have a wore out motor shaft. The end of this video shows a wore out shaft and how to tell that you have one. The only way to fix a wore out motor shaft is to replace the motor.