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Tech Memberships at Appliantology
By Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Appliantology is an invaluable resource for working appliance repair technicians, providing service manuals and datasheets, continuing education technical training, and a community of thousands who have your back whenever you need help or have questions. To maintain the quality of our community and keep it ad-free, we do charge an annual fee of $297 for our Professional Appliantologist membership, which unlocks all that Appliantology has to offer, including tech-only help forums and unthrottled,- 5 comments
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How to Troubleshoot a GE Cooktop like a Real Tech vs. like a PCM
By Son of Samurai
What we call Parts-Changing Monkeys (PCMs) around here at Appliantology are techs who rely on pattern recognition, tech myths, and blind luck to make their repairs. Case in point with this example of a GE ZGU385 gas cooktop, where said PCM figured he would get lucky by replacing a couple of components that seemed related to the problem, apparently without any troubleshooting beforehand. Spoiler: he didn't get lucky. Real technicians don't rely on luck to get things fixed. We rely on kn- 15 comments
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[video] Troubleshooting a no convection bake problem on a GE Advantium Speedcooker
By Samurai Appliance Repair Man
We troubleshot a GE Advantium Speedcooker from the control board for a no convection bake problem and determined that either the convective heating element or the TCO had failed open. Testing each component individually required uninstalling the oven with special equipment. So on our second visit, we returned with both parts-- the convection heating element and the TCO. The specific failure turned out to be the non-resettable TCO that had failed open. Watch how I used the schematic to sele- 1 comment
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The Master Samurai Tech Alumni Program
By Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Training at the Master Samurai Tech Academy is already a killer deal: comprehensive, state-of-the-art training that’s online and on-demand at tuition low enough that anyone can afford it. Well now we’re kicking it up to 11 with the Master Samurai Tech Alumni program. If you have been certified* in the Core course at the Master Samurai Tech Academy (formerly called the "Fundamentals" course) or earned Master Certification at the Mr. Appliance Academy (Bundle 1 only), you can get full te- 5 comments
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Appliantology is Your Key to Appliance Repair Service Call Success!
By Samurai Appliance Repair Man
The Old Skool method of doing service calls was to go out on the call and pray to the pot bellied Buddha that the tech sheet was still hidden somewhere on the appliance. The plan being that, if the tech sheet was still there, you could stare at the lines and squiggles long enough to convince the customer you had reached a definitive and scientific conclusion about the problem. My friends, I'm here to tell you that the Internet has made this Monkey Boy way of doing bidness obso-frikkin-lete- 1 comment
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Our community blogs
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In this recent Live Dojo appliance troubleshooting workshop, we workshopped a problem with a Maytag dryer where it would start but stop running as soon as the start button was released. We looked at how the motor's start circuit works-- how it's configured before starting and how it changes after the motor is started and running. Finally, we compared this start configuration with the Whirlpool push to start (PTS) relay system.
Become a tech member at Appliantology and join in on the conversation: https://appliantology.org/blogs/entry/1027-tech-memberships-at-appliantology/
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At ASTI 2025 in Orlando, FL, I had the honor of teaching a class on reading schematics and troubleshooting using Master Samurai Tech's patented Ten-Step Tango troubleshooting technique. During that class, we did diagnostic workshops on a number of different scenarios, all of which were taken from right here at Appliantology. For those of you who couldn't make it out for the convention, let's run through one of those scenarios here.
We'll be running through the steps of the Tango, but for those who aren't familiar, you can download the steps here.
Here's the setup: you're working on an LG refrigerator, and the customer says that they're not getting water out of the dispenser. They also say that they can get ice out of the dispenser just fine.
Before we even head out on the job, we're going to start the Tango. In fact, the first seven of the ten steps can be done during prediagnosis. The very first step is...
1. Formulate the basic problem statement
This is where we take the customer's complaint, and we boil it down into a short, simple statement that answers two questions: what is the appliance doing that it shouldn't be doing? and what is the appliance not doing that it should be doing?
In this case, our problem statement would be not dispensing water. Simple enough.
2. Do a schematic overview
We head over to Appliantology, look up the tech docs for our model number, and we take a look at the schematic:
In this case, there's also a secondary schematic that we should take note of:
Now that we've got the schematics, next step...
3. Identify the Load of Interest (LOI)
The Load of Interest is, as we like to say, the thing that ain't doing its thang. It is not necessarily the load we think is the ultimate culprit -- we're not ready to make guesses yet. We're just identifying the load that is not behaving how it's supposed to as a starting point for our troubleshooting.
In our case, we could actually pick two possible loads of interest: the pilot valve or the water valve, since both need to open in order for water to flow from the dispenser. In cases like this, we can just pick whichever one we like to proceed with our troubleshooting.
Since the customer reported that there's no issue with ice production, it's reasonable to assume that the pilot valve works, since it needs to open in order for the ice maker to fill. So how about we pick the water valve as our LOI, since that's the valve specifically for water dispensing.
4. LOI Circuit Analysis
Now that we've picked the water valve as our LOI, we want to figure out how it gets its power supply. Since it's a 120 VAC load, that means we want to see how it gets line, and how it gets neutral.
When we trace it out on the schematic, it looks like this:
But that's not the whole story until we look at the dispenser PCB schematic, too:
Despite having to use two schematics to look at the water valve's full circuit, the circuit turns out to be pretty simple. Line and neutral both go through the main board, then through a wire harness. Neutral goes directly from there to the water valve, whereas line goes through a switch on the dispenser PCB.
5. Formulate a troubleshooting hypothesis
Now we're finally at the step where we make our hypothesis, which is our best educated guess at the cause of the problem statement, drawing on the analysis we've already done of the relevant circuits and our understanding of the technology. This guess needs to be something that we can perform tests to either prove or disprove.
A reasonable hypothesis would be failed water valve. Very straightforward -- if the water valve has failed such that it can't open, that would prevent the water dispenser from functioning.
6. Identify electrical measurements
Now that we have our best guess, it's time to see if it holds water. What kind of test would give us the most information for the least hassle?
After briefly pondering and scratching ourselves, we can conclude that a voltage test would be the easiest useful test. If we can determine whether the water valve is getting a valid voltage supply while the dispenser is activated, this will let us know if the problem is the valve itself or something else entirely.
We will of course use the LoZ setting of our multimeter for this AC voltage test, since we're techs who know our stuff.
7. Identify EEPs at which to make electrical measurements
We don't have to go at this like a caveman, tearing things apart until we get right to the component in question. Instead, we can find test points that are easier to access and electrically identical to performing the voltage test right at the valve.
For the first of our two test points, we can put a lead on CON2-11 on the dispenser PCB. That's where we should have 120 VAC when the dispenser is activated.
For our measurement's reference, we can use any easily accessible, unswitched neutral. You would normally want to use a neutral that's in your load's circuit to verify you have a valid neutral, but in our case, the water valve shares a neutral with the ice valve, and we know that the ice valve works fine and therefore has a good neutral.
8. Perform electrical measurements
Everything you have already done can be done before you're even on the job. We've only just now reached the step where you do need to be physically around the appliance.
Using the test points we already selected, we set up our meter leads and call for water at the dispenser.
The result: 120 VAC. Also, you hear the water valve hum when activated.
These findings by themselves are inconclusive. We need to do one more test to either prove or disprove our hypothesis: we should cheat the pilot valve. That means hooking the valve up to a cheater cord plugged right into a wall outlet.
But wait, why cheat the pilot valve? What does that get us?
Well, we know that the water valve has a good power supply, and we know from the fact that it's humming that it's at least trying to open. We have not yet checked the pilot valve's power supply, so we don't know anything about its current state. If we cheat the pilot valve and then activate the dispenser, whether we get water or not tells us with 100% certainty if the water valve is bad.
And as it turns out, when we do the test like this, we get water happily shooting out of the dispenser.
9. Compare the electrical measurements with expected readings or specifications
So where does that leave us? Well, we have successfully disproven our hypothesis. If the water valve had failed, then we would not have gotten any water out of the dispenser when we cheated the pilot valve and activated the dispenser.
While we're not at the end of the road yet, disproving a hypothesis is a good thing! It means we're zeroing in on the solution.
With all the information we've gained from our tests, we can go back to step 5 of the Tango and form a new, more informed hypothesis.
Step 5 revisited: new hypothesis
It's time to sit with our findings in deep and tranquil meditation so that we can make a new hypothesis. We know that both the water and pilot valves are good. They are fully capable of opening. And we know that the water valve's power supply is in perfect working order, so the water valve is completely cleared of any suspicion.
Our new LOI becomes the pilot valve.
At first, the idea that there's anything wrong with the pilot valve's circuit seems a bit confusing. We know that it runs just fine when the ice maker calls for a fill. So how can there be an issue with its power supply?
Well, if we study the schematic some more, we can see that there are actually two different ways for the pilot valve to get its line voltage supply.
It can get its voltage supply through the main board, as shown here:
Or through the dispenser PCB, as shown here:
And now it starts to come together.
Our new hypothesis is: missing line voltage to the pilot valve during water dispensing
Following the Tango again, we can quickly make a voltage measurement at CON2-10 on the dispenser PCB while activating the dispenser. Surely it must be something like a failed switch on the dispenser PCB, right? Surely we won't find our voltage supply.
But we do -- we have a solid 120 VAC at CON2-10.
This doesn't disprove our hypothesis, though -- we need to see now if this voltage is actually making it to the pilot valve.
So we go directly to the pilot valve, place our probes, activate the dispenser, and...
Nothing. 0 VAC.
Finally, after our long odyssey, we have found the cause of our issue. There is a break in the wire harness somewhere between the dispenser PCB and the water valve. We can even do a continuity test of the wire to confirm this.
Looking at the schematic once more, we can form a good idea of where to look first for our broken wire:
Harness connectors through door hinges can be notoriously prone to breaking. And lo and behold, when we inspect the wires in that harness, we find a break in the wire, as expected.
And so, we can move onto the final, coveted step of the Tango...
10. Make the repair and check for proper operation
With the new wiring installed, all that you need to do is put a cup in the dispenser to make sure everything is working as it should.
And there you have it --another tricky issue untangled with the help of the patented Ten-Step Tango.
Did you get lost anywhere along the way? Do you want to learn more about the Tango and how to apply it to any tricky scenario you encounter? Check out the Core Appliance Repair Training course over at the Master Samurai Tech Academy.
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WPL Direct Drive “burning smell”
Every now and then I’ll run across this. The complaint is the customer smells burning- possibly rubber or electrical. The machine works fine.
What I sometimes find is that the smell is coming from the lid switch area, and either the connector to the switch is burned or both the connector and switch are burned. Sometimes this observed and one can see the charring of the connector. But sometimes it’s not visible. An easy way to tell is to simply remove the connector, and if the connector is resistant to removal, then that’s a sign it’s burned or getting there. In fact, sometimes I’ll discover this condition as I’m removing the cabinet for a repair.
Today’s complaint was “an occasional burning smell.” I found the connector was burned at the Line, which is where the heat is being generated. So I only needed to repair one terminal. Sometimes one, two, or all three terminals need replacing. Just depends.
Sorry, I had already began to cut the connector before I decided to take pics. I use a pair of strong sheers to cut the connector sections.
The terminals on the lid switch are 1/8”. I save terminals from stuff and I found the terminals from Whirlpool motors are perfect. I have also ordered them before from Amazon.
Back in bidness!
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Testing HSI Ignitor Amps at Low Voltages
I posted this in reply to a Tech Forum post (linked below), but thought I would cross-post here to keep track of it, as well as to have a place to post any follow up testing
I did a quick test of Hot Surface Ignitor amps at different voltages, and what I measured was way more linear than I expected. See graph below. I used a variac to vary supply voltage to a brand new Robertshaw 41-205 rectangular HSI ignitor. I measured the ignitor current at 5V steps after a little settling time until the current reading looked stable. Not the data I expected, but there you go. Might be interesting to repeat with a well-used ignitor, or with a more accurate current measuring setup, like multiple wire turns through the clamp meter or with a current shunt.
It might also be interesting to include a safety valve in the circuit to see the thresholds where the valve actually pops open, though I suspect the safety valve amp threshold would be relatively independent of supply voltage (since the voltage drop across the valve bi-metal is such a small fraction (~3%) of the supply voltage, seems like fluctuations in supply voltage would have very slight effects on bi-metal heating)
When looking at the graph, note that the red line (Relative change in Watts per 5V change in ignitor voltage) is somewhat artificially scaled to accentuate the slight non-linearity in the data. The measured data is shown in the blue line (measured amps). The red line is a bit of a contrived parameter, and is just calculated by watts at a given voltage minus watts at 5V less than that voltage, basically showing how the slope of the blue line changes with voltage
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Inevitably you will at some point in your career damage a customer's stuff. Most common is usually the appliance you are working on, or the floor. The big stuff is flooding a customer's house, fire, smoke, etc.
Let's talk about the small stuff first.
Scratched/ damaged appliance: Just understand that your maximum liability on this is the value of the appliance. Not the cost to replace. The value of a 10 year old used appliance. If you did the damage the first thing you should do is own it. Second, and most important: Dont ever talk about insurance or compensation etc. Once you start planting ideas in the customer's head, there is no turning back. For example: you broke a crisper bucket during removal. All you need to say is "your crisper bucket broke during disassembly, do you want me to order you a new one? The cost is X.XX. Its not so much you want them to pay for the bucket, its more so that you are conveying that you did not just F* up. Normal course of things. If you arent that brave, just tell the customer what you did and that you will bring back another one in a few days.
You dented the door: Say to the customer: "How do you want to resolve this?" You really need to smear on the humility. Call yourself and idiot, etc. The goal is to build empathy, and avoid the adversarial confrontation. You will be surprised how often they say don't worry about it. Sometimes they ask for a discount, some will ask for a new door. If they ask for a door, look it up right there, on the spot. Figure out the cost of the door, write the lady a check on the spot for the door + $150 for someone else to install it. Its not your problem that the door is NLA, I can almost guarantee you they will just pocket the money and buy a fifty cent magnet. The important part is to settle the matter right then and there. Write the check, or discount the bill, you need to specifically write that you are fully compensating them for the damage to the door. Make them sign.
The damaged flooring: This is one where most of you will throw your hands up and file a claim. I have been in the appliance business for 20+ years and I can shamefully tell you I have (my delivery guys really) damaged many floors, doors, windows, walls, cars, and more. If you damage a floor, do not get the customer involved. Its your mess, you clean it up. If you tell the customer to go get an estimate, you will end up buying Karen a new floor. Most flooring damage is in the way of a dent, and some more severe have a dent/ minor scratch. A good steam mop will pull 99% of dents out. If there is a scratch, buff it out with a bit of floor polyurethane and a rag. The trick to resolving this in my experience is to do the entire kitchen. Just steam/ clean, not POLY) Steam ALL of her dents out ,and get an excellent hardwood floor cleaner (like BONA) and clean her floors. Leave her the cleaner as a parting gift. When you see the customer's eyes get big, or crack a smile, not only did you dodge an expensive bullet, but you get to keep the customer.
YOU change the window, YOU (or YOUR contractor) fix the wall/paint/trim. Your people will look out for you, and generally will give you an excellent price for the correction. Your customer's contractor will get paid big time.
If you break a ceramic tile: If you break a tile its either you were Grossly negligent, or the floor was installed incorrectly. Buy the closest thing you can find, but DO NOT install that tile in front of the stove/ fridge. Its likely not an exact match and will look out of place. Harvest a tile from under the fridge or stove and install that tile, putting the new tile out of sight.
Water damage- wood flooring: If you catch it within a couple weeks you should be fine. Wood swells up when wet, and will always shrink when dry. Solve the leak, apologise profusely, and get to drying it. Hair dryers, towels, and a few trips will take care of it.
Water damage drywall: Hire a contractor, tell him to take care of it 100%, AND SEND YOU THE BILL.
WHY BOTHER, I HAVE INSURANCE FOR THIS? Your insurance will cover the first claim, and I promise at your renewal you rates will skyrocket IF they even take you back. If you file 2 claims in about 5 years, not only will your insurance co drop you, but good like finding anyone to cover you. If you do some BIG damage, like massive flooding or fire/ smoke, that is what insurance is for.
It really boils down to this: You can fix a scratched floor for a few hundred dollars. Once you get insurance, the customer, and random contractors involved, it instantly becomes a four figure repair. You will end up paying for all of it one way or another.
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Pricing Service in a Small Service Company
From the latest USA newsletter:
Pricing Service in a Small Service Company
By David Oliva
While doing research for this series of articles the topic that came up most frequently was pricing. How do I know what to charge, what pricing structure should I use, what’s “fair”, what’s the value of our service, should I be cheaper than my competitor, etc? Appropriate and profitable pricing is one of the most important parts of running a successful small service company (SSC). It’s also one of the most difficult. Most SSC owners, me included, have no formal business training and so we struggle with issues like this. Many SSC owners undervalue their skills by quite a bit because of this lack of training and so are sometimes extremely underpriced. This creates a variety of problems such as not having enough extra income to cover the cost of necessary training and an inability to expand or improve the company due to lack of funds. It also creates a problem for the industry as a whole because it undermines professionalism and creates an atmosphere where customers are taught not to value our profession as they do other professions.
Let’s start at the beginning. The foundation for all pricing starts with your cost of doing business (CODB). Without knowing your CODB setting prices is a guessing game. United Servicers Association has a great, free, CODB calculator on their website. What it will allow you to do is input all of your expenses and calculate your CODB on an hourly basis. Knowing how much it actually costs you simply to be open for business each hour of the day is invaluable and, at least the first time you do it, eye opening. It was a big shock to me when I ran those numbers about 5 years ago. I had no idea we had to spend so much money just to be open. Once you have that number you can begin planning a pricing structure.
Link to USA free CODB: https://www.unitedservicers.com/codb-calculator
There are two basic structures for pricing, hourly or flat/job rate. An hourly rate is self explanatory but a job rate structure may be unfamiliar to some. A job rate structure will typically have between three and ten rates, which will vary from the simplest jobs to the most involved and complex. With a job rate system the time it takes to complete a repair is only one factor out of many used to determine the price. Job rates systems are generally the most profitable way to price repairs in our industry. The benefit to the independent SSC of a job rate system is the ability to capitalize on experience and skill. With an hourly rate the better and faster one gets the less money they will collect on each job, making it necessary to complete more jobs to make the same amount of money. With a job rate system the faster you are the more you make because the price of the repair is not tied to time. Job rate systems reward skill and efficiency.
What is fair? This is a contentious point in our industry. Many SSC owners feel that we should not charge professional rates for the work we do or that job rates are “unfair” to the customer because they tend to increase the overall repair price. I believe this stems from a lack of respect for the work we do, even from people within our industry. This attitude, as stated above, undermines the industry as a whole. There is no reason why we should not be well paid for the service we provide to our customers. Fairness is subjective and so it is a meaningless concept in regards to pricing. Pricing in an SSC, which typically does a low volume of repairs relative to larger companies which can take advantage of high volume, should be fundamentally based on two points. The first, and most important, is CODB. Without covering your CODB you will fail, this is simple math. If your CODB dictates rates that you feel are “unfair” then you either need to reduce your CODB or let go of the idea that prices can be fair or unfair. The second point is your market. After you’ve calculated your CODB you can then feel out your market for profit maximization. The old school method for feeling out maximum price still holds true, if you’re not getting at least a few complaints about your prices you can charge more.
Value is also subjective, and so ideal customers may be those that place a premium on quality service and are willing to pay for it. If your market is a large metropolitan area then chances are high end brand appliances are plentiful in your service area. Typically customers with these brands will value quality over price and be willing to pay higher rates for better service. In such a case why try to compete by having the lowest price? Why not offer the highest level of service available and charge appropriately for it? Competing on price is often a race to the bottom and in the current economic climate lowering your prices may not be a viable option. Compete on quality, not price.
The biggest obstacle to higher rates, and higher profits, is often psychological. It’s very common to hear SSC owners say “I can’t charge that! No one will pay it. My competitor only charges $10.” This is a myth based on nothing but fear. I was once browsing the racks of luxury retailer Neiman-Marcus and came across a shirt from the designer brand Givenchy. This was a simple sweatshirt with a screen printed Rottweiler on it. This shirt was priced at $900. You may not be interested in designer fashion, but LVMH Group, the parent company of Givenchy, made about $5.7 billion in profit in 2017. The point being that customers are willing to pay almost anything for what they perceive to be valuable. And this is where value comes from, a product or service is valued at whatever people are willing to pay for it. If you can set up your company to be perceived as more valuable than your competition then you can command higher rates.
This industry is full of people who love what they do, and are very good at it. They treat their customers with respect; they provide quality service and honor their warranty. The go out of their way to help people who need help. And so why shouldn’t they make enough money to drive a new service vehicle, have excellent health insurance and take a great earned vacation now and then? Why shouldn’t they value their skills the way other trades and professions value theirs? Why shouldn’t there be enough extra profit to provide for a great retirement, another topic of great interest to SSC owners? The answer to all of those questions is they should, and there should be. Pricing appropriately will ensure that and we need to focus more on this, and in greater depth, especially for the SSC owners, since we are the ones who need the most help with it. - 6
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We all want to grow our companies, but finding and keeping qualified techs or just finding anyone that posseses even the slightest work ethic is a difficult, near impossible task. This song laments this sad state of affairs but also is a tribute to the recent passing of one of the greats.
Scroll down, start the video, scroll back up and sing along!
Whirlpool Drain (or if Prince was an Appliantologist looking for good help)
Maybe you never meant to cause me any sorrow
Maybe you never meant to cause me any pain
I only wanted to one time see you working
I only wanted to see you
working on a Whirlpool DrainWhirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
I only wanted to see you
Steaming up a Whirlpool DrainI never wanted to be a hard-assed employer
But neither could I be some kind of friend
Now please go away, go work for another
For your employment with me has to endWhirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
I only wanted to see you
Underneath a Whirlpool DrainDude, I know, I know
I know appliances are changing
It's time we all reach out
to learn something new, that means you tooYou say you want me to teach you
But you can't seem to concentrate your mind
So I think you better pack it
Since you can't even Ptrap a Whirlpool DrainWhirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
Whirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
Service Owners, if you know what I'm singing about up here
C'mon, raise your handWhirlpool Drain, Whirlpool Drain
I only want to have one
Only want to see one
Working on a Whirlpool DrainThis song debuting on AppLYRICology Best of Durham Music Vol 1
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Back to normal life
Well ladies and gents. Sorry I have been MIA for a while. Life has been crazy with service calls and my new technician. Also had our first baby (technician in training)
. It's been an amazing experience. I am loving every second of it. It has been tough through all the changes which is why i have been absent from here for a bit. But i'm BACK! I hope the Samurai and Durham have been holding the fort down and not letting you guys get away with too much! hahaha. - 18
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Latest Entry
How to test motor speeds (RPM)
I was talking with another tech this morning about checking RPM. this brought up the subject of strobes. As we were
discussing strobes it occurred to me someone had probably created an app with RPM already. Shazaaam!!!
Here's a app that will allow you to test RPM on fans. You can also test motor rpm, if, you place a mark on the shaft.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/strobe-light-tachometer-to/id708094321?mt=8
To check fan speed just dial it in till the fan appears to be not moving at all. That'll give you your RPM.
Same with a motor if you mark the shaft. When the mark appears to no longer be moving you've got the RPM.
I'm not really sure if this is the correct use of this Blog thingy, but, bet I'll find out sure enough!! Yeeehaw!!!
Huh... I hope I wasn't the last person on earth to figure this out!
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Coconut Lime Chicken Soup
Here's a Thai-inspired chicken soup that is easy to make and bursting with flavor! It's healthy comfort food with an Asian twist.
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoons coconut oil, ghee, or butter
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1-2 pounds uncooked chicken breast, diced
- 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped fine
- 4 cloves garlic, minced, divided
- 1 quart chicken broth (I use either homemade or a box of low sodium, no added MSG.)
- 1 can coconut milk (look for this in the Asian/Thai section of the grocery store. I prefer regular, not "lite".)
- 1 lime, juiced, divided
- ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
- 4 scallions, chopped
- ½ bunch cilantro, chopped
- salt, to taste
- optional: Thai fish sauce, cooked rice
Directions
Heat a soup pot over medium high heat, then add the coconut oil. Saute the onions with a little salt for a few minutes, then add the chicken chunks with a little more salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until chicken is just cooked through. Add the ginger and half of the garlic towards the end of this.
Stir in the broth and bring to a boil, then stir in the coconut milk, half of the lime juice, and the red pepper flakes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for at least 15 minutes (longer is fine, too).
Turn off the heat, and add salt to taste (depends on the amount in your chicken broth). Stir in the rest of the garlic, the scallions, and most of the cilantro (leave a little aside for topping individual bowls). Add the rest of the lime juice if desired. Cover and let sit off-heat for 5 to 10 minutes, then serve.
Great served over rice. Add a few drops of fish sauce to your serving to knock the flavor out of the park!
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[Yes, I did reset the breaker and checked the voltages. Here's the wiring diagram:
Source: Amana NED7200TW Dryer no heat, problem with cycling thermostat?
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