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Fridge-freezer unit, SN 804KR00272. First issue was freezer melt-down. Didn't have time to deal with it, my appliance tech replaced the linear compressor. The compressor cooled fridge to 37F, shut off, started again at about 43F and cooled to 36.7 and never restarted again. The compressor only ran two cycles over a weekend. When we came back, I turned off power for a bit, plugged it in and compressor started. Again ran just 3 cycles and no more. Notably, the compressor makes more noise than it used to (before replacement). Our appliance tech came back and replaced the motherboard, after some other tests. I wasn't here, unfortunately, so don't know any details what he tested or otherwise changed. Since I have a GoVee WiFi thermostat and hygrometer in the fridge section, I get very detailed readings from that (great little thing btw). So after the new motherboard initial power-up, I see temperature drop to about 37F, the compressor subsequently ran 8 normal cycles maintaining the fridge within 35.6F and 41F range (see pic). Great - except after that it stopped and temperature steadily increased to room temperature and stayed there. Nobody in the house, doors closed and no other interference. When I got back, I turned power off/on, fridge compressor kicked in, quickly cooled the fridge in about 1.5 hrs from 78F to 45F (fridge is set to 37F), now the temp has climbed to 52F and compressor has not started again. Suggestions for troubleshooting steps? Process of elimination?

Hi Everybody, I have a GE PFE29PSDASS fridge that was not cooling and it appeared like the inverter board is at fault - getting correct signals from main board and compressor with continuity across all pins. In my man-handling attempt to get the inverter board out of the crammed space, I managed to bend the compressor line (service port ?) just enough that the line broke. I am just handy enough to order a new board and replace it, but what is the recommended course of action to get the compressor line fixed and the compressor recharged. I have limited experience with this and am not sure of my next steps now. Can I simply solder this shut and do I then need to find a way to pull a vacuum on the compressor / refrigeration system and/or how to proceed from there. I replaced a car AC compressor many moons ago and remember needing to go through those steps at the time, but have no idea if its the same here of different. Much appreciate the support! Tom

My Kenmore 795.71013.011 bottom-freezer fridge (here's a picture of the fridge tag with model number) is not cooling (both the fridge and the freezer are warm). Here are the things I have tested and what I have noticed: These things seem to be working fine: The evaporator fan runs fine inside the fridge The evaporate coils do not have frost on them, so the defroster system seems fine The condenser coils on the back of the fridge (inside the back panel near the floor) are clean (no dirt/dust issues) The condenser coil fan is running fine These are the issues I have noticed: The compressor is running on a regular cycle, but it seems to be drawing too little current (anywhere from 0.5 Amps to 0.8 Amps during the cycle) The compressor also does not draw consistent current throughout the cycle. It starts at 0.8 A, goes down to 0.5 A, then back up to 0.8 A before it stops. The compressor makes a strange noise when it stops the cycle (see this video to see the current draw during the cycle as well as the strange noise at the end of the video) The compressor isn't really heating up during operation; it's maybe slightly higher than room temperature The refrigerant lines into and out of the compressor are pretty much room temperature all the time

Hi, I need tour help. I have a whirlpool wrx988sibm01 four door refrigerator. None of fhe compartments are cooling. Compressor isn't coming on. I checked the compressor (VEGZ 7H) it checks out good. Equal 6.8ohm across all windings/ terminals. No continuity to ground for any of the terminals. All fans appear to work. As soon as i turn on power First, icemaker fan comes ON, then condensor fan comes ON, then after a while the icemaker fan goes OFF and top compartment fan comes ON. Then after a while the freezer evaporator fan comes ON. Once the condensor fan turns ON, it stays ON. But the compressor never comes ON. Then i checked the inverter (W10154805; VCC3 1156 19 A 52): It is receiving 110v. The control voltage reads 7.14vdc, is it too high. Your video spoke of 4-6vdc for control voltage. I also checked the output voltage from the inverter. 3 being the bottom terminal in the upside down triangular configuration of terminals and G being ground. (inverter should be putting out 230v 53-153hz), can't tell if this is ac vs. dc and how to measure for this 230v reading, i.e. across which terminals etc. So measure what i could and here are my readings: G-1 = 167vdc; G-2 = 154vdc; G-3 = 154vdc 1-2 = 317vdc; 1-3 = 317vdc; 2-3 = 0vdc I looked for current draw on one of the 110v wire coming to inverter, it never went past 0.03Amps, consistent with the low power fans that came ON, but never the compressor. Now, i am at my wits end, with no path to troubleshoot the issue. Can someone please help. Thanks in advance to anyone willing and able to help me.

Low temp freezer not cooling. Fan runs. Coils have been cleaned. Compressor not running. Need help to diagnose start relay and control board. Thanks!!

Whirlpool Refrigerator Service Bulletin - Wisemotion Linear Compressor Service Requirements View File PUB W10847598 Rev A Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 12/25/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Hello all, I have a Maytag RSD22A, compressor won't start. Resistance values ok on all 3 pins. Can I check the relay and compressor by connecting 110V directly to the start pin, or is there a better way?

Haven't posted for some years so hope I'm asking for help in the right forum. I did an old Maytag washer stem and seal replace with Appliantology's help some years ago. My carrier central AC 38CKC030-301 compressor isn't engaging. When it's working I can hear the gas running through the copper tube to the drying filter to my condenser in the plenum. Not a sound now and outside only the cooling fan is running. Don't hear the compressor running at all. I'm told I can check some small parts like a relay for capacitor. Can anyone confirm this or refer me to a manual for troubleshooting? Thanks so much, Frank

Frigidaire Refrigerator Bulletin- Improper Use Of Hard Start Kits View File Frigidaire service bulletin on use of hard start kits. PUB RF0613 Submitter PlugNickel Submitted 01/18/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Just pulled this one out of storage after 6 months - compressor and condenser fan will not run - evap fan running full speed. Has had "no cooling" issues in the past - but always seems to fix itself after a day or two. Not this time - just plugged it in - and nothing happening. I suspect the wonderful dual digital display control board (@ $150 - Ouch) but I'm going to check for voltage at the condenser fan and at the compressor start relay - before I spend $$$ on a new control board. Any other things to check? Condenser coil is clean enough - and I would think the compressor would start up in any case from a dead warm siesta. Compressor doesn't even try to start - no clicks, no nuthin... Frigidaire/Electrolux Side by Side manf 10/2007 Thanks !!!

Hi: Whirlpool Refrigerator Dual Evaporator WRF989SDAM00 I have been trying to get this working properly for a while now. Initially I determined a leak, found the leak on the RC evaporator and repaired it. Held 100 PSI nitrogen for a couple days, vacuum, and recharged with R134a 5.5 oz. Now it does this: On warm startup the refrigerator section cools down as it is supposed to as I understand. This unit cools one evaporator at a time. So the RC goes down to around 36.3F or so on my K-type thermometer at the RC fan output. That seems normal enough because the front panel setting is 37F. So then it goes to cool the freezer section. I see the freezer temp coming down on my second Ktype thermometer lead at the FC evaporator outlet, but does not ever get the freezer section cold enough. Front panel setting is 0F for the freezer. It goes down alright into the 40F and under area. But not lower. My suction pressure was a little too high seems to me. Would not go below 18 to 20 PSIG. I removed some refrigerant gas so it is drawing down to 6 to 10 PSIG now. But that is not the solution. It seems to me the compressor is just not drawing down enough to reduce the suction pressure to near 0 PSIG where it needs to be. So here's my question for now. What is the DC voltage into the compressor start inverter supposed to be doing during all this? The 120VAC into the compressor start inverter is solid. The 3-6 VDC into the inverter just stays at 3.4xx all the time, no matter what. Shouldn't this be varying to increase the compressor speed and therefore draw the suction pressure lower? What am I thinking wrong or missing here? I got this for nothing and as a project but would really like to troubleshoot it correctly. Thanks for any ideas/experience.

I have an LG refrigerator model LFC21700ST which has side by side at top and freezer on bottom - that is not cooling either in the refrigerator or freezer. Prior to this water leaked on the floor fairly frequently and ice sheets were deposited in the bottom of the freezer. A week ago it stopped cooling but has power and lights and the compressor gets warm but not overly warm – fans also run and go off when doors are open. One click is heard just before the compressor starts and this seems to come from the main board. I have done a number of things so far and there has been no improvement: 1. Changed the main board – I had one already and thought this would rule this outlines 2. Changed the thermistor w/ fuse 3. Changed the start relay and overload – but the old one is actually good – and compressor did not start with new start relay and overload - both start relays had similar continuities and both capacitors with within tolerances. 4 Checked the heat coil continuity which is ok – and no error code during test mode 5. Examined evap coils in freezer as far as I can tell - ok 6. Cleaned the drain from freezer which had trash in it 7. Cleaned compressor condenser coils 8. Checked compressor for short – ok 9. Checked continuity of compressor pins – ok – I think 6,6,12 roughly – one may have been a little lower than the other rather than 6,6 10. Checked receptacle and plug - ok 11. Checked lower wires between compressor and plug to wires running to main board – ok 12 Checked continuity from hot spade of plug to hot connector on plug of harness running from main board N pin to capacitor on compressor start relay 13. Checked continuity from hot (and neutral) spade on plug to black wire ( that runs next to blue wire) running from main board L pin for start relay - here there was no continuity (OL) and I did not know if this actually ran from the hot side or neutral of the plug but I am guessing hot but there was no continuity on either anyway -should there be? Or is there some switch that is open until a close is called for or vice versa? 14. The amp draw on both blue line (N to capacitor) and black line (L to PTC) is 0.5 A – initially 0.7-.8 then drops to around 0.5A and stays as long as it is plugged in. There is one click at the main panel just before the compressor turns on and one as it turns off otherwise runs quietly and it gets gently warm and the vibrations can be felt - seems like maybe not enough power to compressor(?) 15. Ran tests as indicated on back of refrigerator and got no error codes. 16. I did not check for compressor run from isolated plug because I do not have one and was not sure how to do it safely Any ideas? Can it be a damaged black wire in the upper harness to the main board limiting power input to compressor? Can it be the compressor, or another related part interfering with the working of the compressor? Also I was told that low amp draw if everything else is normal may indicate low coolant level, is this true (even if not necessarily in this case?) I do not understand the necessary connections between these components and their internal workings well enough to draw any reliable conclusions yet. Thanks for any help anyone is able to offer. Pauli

I have a Viking refrigerator model vcbb363rss. The problem is the compressor is not turning on at all. I checked the inverter and it is bad. I took it apart and there was some brown fluid in there and one of the capacitors has exploded. The other capacitor has a pretty big bulge. Problem is the model number on the inverter is vcc3 1156 02a 03. This inverter is not sold anymore. Is there a new inverter that will replace it and if so part/model number? Thanks in advance for your help!

Hello everyone. My Kenmore refrigerator began to make clicking noises three weeks ago after a power outage. I have replaced the relay twice with new ones. Replaced the cold control because it was going bad. Replaced the defrost board. Refrigerator is still clicking every 3-4 minutes, lights inside dim. The model number is 106.51103.10. It is only four years old. Capacitor checks OK. The readings that I am getting from the compressor are from the two bottom prongs: (8.5) from the common to the other prongs. (3.0) and (5.7). What should I do next? Is the compressor a goner? Thank you.

Bosch Variable Capacity Compressor (VCC) Refrigerator Testing Procedure View File PUB 58300000149521 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 02/25/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper

About a year ago, my Sub Zero 501R thermal protector (attached to the common terminal of the EM30SC compressor) cracked and I was unable to find a replacement and so I replaced the thermal protector and the current type relay with an aftermarket hard-start solid state unit (Supco RCO810 3 n' 1 START Hard Start Kit). It has worked fine for a year but I suspect that the compressor was starting to go which stressed the original thermal protector (either that or that the aftermarket kit was a bad idea) and now the compressor appears to have failed. The compressor ohms out OK (7/16/24) but it simply won't start and now the compressor has started to make a little growling sound when trying to start (bearings perhaps?). I found a replacement compressor (EMI30ER1) which is 1/10 HP (tech specs here: http://www.alltemp.ca/wp-content/files_mf/1383318357EmbracoCat2013_email.pdf). The Q: Would there be any reason, or benefit, to replacing it with a slightly larger 1/8 HP compressor instead? The EMI45ER1 appears to be a slightly larger cousin and had the benefit of not requiring a start capacitor and is basically the same price. Also, under the "bigger is better" theory I'd expect that a bit more HP means that a slightly bigger unit wouldn't have to work as hard but not sure if that'd be wise (or if it would be the case) with a refrigerator compressor. I'm having a hard time finding the replacement drier (SZ 3014230 was original or 7006964 is newer) but I found Supco SUD8358 as a cross-referenced replacement. If anyone recommends against this, please let me know. Last, I have all of the equipment (oxy-A torch, R12 recovery/charging unit, etc.) but I'd prefer to have a local person do the brazing (install the compressor and filter/drier) if you know of anyone near San Jose that'd be interested in just that part of the job. I could take it from there. Just to have all of the 501R info in one place, the R-12 capacity is 8 oz for serial #s prior to M658665/P662865 or 9 oz for serial #s M658666-M1204240 or P662865 to P1214190. Subsequent to those serial #s the unit apparently was charged with 134a and of course with a different compressor and parts than I've listed above. All this info is per this SZ technical data sheet: http://subzerospecialists.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/500techdata.pdf Thanks in advance for any help or advice. Ruprik

File Name: 8201786 Instructions for Compressor Start Kit File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 28 Jul 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Instruction Sheet 8201792B Click here to download this file