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LG DLEX7700VE LG DLGX7701VE Dryer Service Manual View File PUB MFL62119986 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 01/30/2019 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

LG LRE30453ST Range Service Manual View File PUB MFL37118303 Submitter Vance R Submitted 02/24/2022 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Hello, I have a LG washing machine WT4801CW. The air hose between the tub and the pressure switch disconnects from the tub, resulting in the machine stopping, showing IE, and flooding the laundry room. I have reconnected it to the tub nipple using the small metal clamp, but every few weeks it disconnects again. Is there a way to get this air hose to stay connected ? Thank you !

I am having troubles with my LG LDS5540ST dishwasher. The internal heating element, 5301DD1001G, burned out (no continuity but also no visible signs of damage). I've replaced it twice. Each time within the first wash cycle it burns out (no continuity). I've tested each unit prior to installation (and also before operation once installed) and both were good but almost immediately both burned out. Again, there was no visible sign of damage to the heating elements-- just no continuity when I checked with a meter. The water is on and (at least) initially the water is being heated. Then the element burns out. The dishwasher display the HE error code. Additional information that may be helpful: About 9 months ago the entire dishwasher stopped working with a burning smell. Upon investigation I found burned/melted connectors on the main assembly board. It looked to me like a connector wire had become loose and caused arcing. While charred and melted at specific connectors, the rest of the board itself appeared to be okay to my untrained eye. I was not able to determine where/how to purchase replacement connectors for the wiring harness (just the complete $100 wire harness), so just replaced the melted connectors with new female spade connectors instead. That solved the problem. The dishwasher powered up and worked well for at about 8 months. Then the heating element went out (and dishwasher displayed the HE code). Any thoughts on where to go from here? My thoughts: 1. Perhaps the main assembly board (EBR73739203) has gone bad (due to the previous damage over time?) and is burning out the heating element. 2. The wire harness (EAD61906701) is bad (maybe my spliced in connectors are causing some resistance but I'm not sure how that would cause the heating element to burn out -- and burn out within a few minutes). I don't see anything broken (again to my untrained eye) If the main assembly board and wire harness were not so expensive I'd just replace them and one more heating element, but that puts the cost around $230-$290 (plus what I've already spent) and I'm not sure replacing both of those will solve the problem anyway. Plus replacing the entire wiring harness looks like quite a time-consuming pain (I wish there were a source for just the connectors on the wire harness) Cost is unfortunately a significant factor for me. For reference I have included a couple pictures of the main assembly board in case it (or my previous repair work) may be an issue. The first picture is how it looked prior to my repair 9 months ago and the other is a recent picture of what it looks like now (including the repair I made 9 months ago). Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Does anyone have any recommendations on what should I do from here or what would be causing heating elements to keep burning out? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!

Manufacturer: Lg Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: 795.71303.012 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Need tech sheet thanks

LG WM3987HW QC mode change Service Bulletin View File QC mode change PUB M20090214 for WWM20090214, WM0642HW, WM2044CW, WM0001HTMA, WM3001HWA, WM3001HRA, WM3001HPA, WM2801HWA, WM2801HRA, WM2801HLA, WM2601HW, WM2601HR, WM2688HWM, WM2688HNM, WM2688HWM, WM2688HNM, WM2688HCM, WM2487HWM, WM2487HRM, WM2688HWMA, WM2688HNMA, WM2688HRMA, WM2487HWMA, WM2487HRMA, WM2487HSMA, WM3988HWMA, WM3987HW, WM2496HWM, WM2496HSM, WM2455HW, WM2455HG, WM2455HS, WM2355CW, WM2355CG, WM2455CS, WM2301HW, WM2301HR, WM2301HS, WM2233HW, WM2233HS, WM2233HU, WM2233HD, WM2101HW, WM2101HS, WM2133CW, WM2233CS, WM2233CU, WM2016CW Submitter Vance R Submitted 03/08/2021 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Manufacturer: Lg Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: 795.71033.010 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes MAnual and tech sheet needed thx

This LG refrigerator was DOA- warm inside, no compressor operation, no lights, no nuttin'. Found a blown fuse on the main control board. What took out the fuse: bad board or just a spike on the power line? I show how to check for that. The fuses on these LG boards are soldered in and not easily replaceable. But a new fuse can be installed and I show how to do that without even having to remove the board, while it's still installed in the refrigerator. Learn appliance repair at http://mastersamuraitech.com

Manufacturer: Kenmore Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: 795.71033.010 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Need complete manual

I have a Kenmore French door / bottom freezer - Model 795.72053.110 that we purchased in June of 2011. This has a LG Linear Compressor. We just came back from vacation and discovered the refrigerator was running but not cooling anymore. Everything was defrosted. We found out that while we were away the power had gone out for a few hours and then come back on. The compressor is running but only slightly warm. Condenser and Circulating fans are running. Coils are not frozen and only get to about 40 degrees. I unplugged the frig for 1/2 hour last night and then plugged it back in. It ran all night and this morning it was still warm. The compressor is running constantly. I tested the resistance of the compressor and it reads between 6.8 and 7.1 ohms (one of the posts reads open but I think that's normal on a linear compressor). Is this a variable speed compressor? Could it be a circuit board problem due to the power outage or do you think this is an internal compressor or freon problem. I've read that these linear compressors are not reliable. According to my manual, the compressor is supposed to be under warranty for 10 years but NOBODY at Sears will verify that without me paying for technician to come out. I'm also afraid that even if I replace the compressor the system may be contaminated if there was an internal failure in the compressor. I watched a few videos of people tearing down these compressors and they seem to find that an internal valve goes bad and leaves behind a lot of metal shavings. I don't want to waste any money on this frig if it's not worth fixing. Thank you for any help.

Hi all I need your help my front loader a Lg wm3270cw during the spin cycle will shake violently to the point it shakes the detergent draw out and it is definitely out of balance the machine it self is level this only occurs when it builds up speed to spin please tell me what I need to do I can’t afford a tech due to my wife having cancer

My LG gas range (LRG3095S) has started to have preheating problems. The temperature on display appears to rise very slowly, and sometimes the oven stops preheating with an 'F11 heat error'. I don't believe there is any issue with the gas supply. While trying a preheat to 400 I found that the temperature was "stuck" at 200 for a while, not rising. I canceled and then immediately restarted a preheat to 400, and the panel displayed 270. I trying to get some insight as to whether this is a sensor or control board issue. Thanks.